voltage on the ballast res

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srixon4406

TURBO TOAD
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This is a new 69 motor in a 62 valiant and I doing the first start up with the new power plant Also I've never had this car running nor have I heard it run I've went through the wiring and fixed what the previous owner had messed up.

The problem I'm having is with the key in the run position I'm getting a 10 vdc reading on the incoming side of the ballast res and about a 5 vdc reading going to the coil and my spark is weak
Are these reading what I should be seeing or should they be closer to 12 vdc I'm charging the batt now I was think possible I low charge on the batt
Anybody have any ideas
Aaron
 
.............It should have batt voltage to the bal and 7-10 out of the bal.....u can get diff bal with diff resistance...kim......
 
The low reading you are getting on the "dark blue" coming OUT of the bulkhead from the ignition switch is an indicator of TROUBLE. You have a voltage drop in the bulkhead connector/ ammeter wiring/ ignition switch/ ignition switch wireing.

(Before I recently did a partial rewire on my 67, it had a ONE VOLT drop between the battery positive post and the dark blue IGN source at the ballast.

THIS ALSO WILL CAUSE overcharging, because this is the sensing voltage for the regulator.

Let's say, like me, YOU HAVE a one volt drop. This means that if the regulator "is correct" and is TRYING to regulate at 14V, it "sees" 13V at the "dark blue" because of the troubles in the harness/ bulkhead.

BUT IT IS REGULATING at 14, so it RAMPS UP until that 13V is 14 AT THE DARK BLUE. But because there is a ONE VOLT drop between there and the battery, the battery sees 15 volts!!!

First thing I'd do is pull the bulkhead apart and inspect clean, then consider doing an "ammeter bypass" and clean and inspect the connector for the ignition.

I went further. On my 67, I installed a fuse / relay center out of a 90's Caravan, has several fuses/ relays inside.

I used one relay for "ignition run" IE ignition and alternator field, one each for low and high beams, and a third for the pump. I "threw in the towel" and converted the ammeter to a Sunpro voltmeter, and now the voltage in the system is pretty much "perfect."

The bulkhead has been eliminated. I just gutted it, and fed the new wiring through the connector holes.

(I do need to crawl in there and seal 'em with RTV)
 
The low reading you are getting on the "dark blue" coming OUT of the bulkhead from the ignition switch is an indicator of TROUBLE. You have a voltage drop in the bulkhead connector/ ammeter wiring/ ignition switch/ ignition switch wireing.

(Before I recently did a partial rewire on my 67, it had a ONE VOLT drop between the battery positive post and the dark blue IGN source at the ballast.

THIS ALSO WILL CAUSE overcharging, because this is the sensing voltage for the regulator.

Let's say, like me, YOU HAVE a one volt drop. This means that if the regulator "is correct" and is TRYING to regulate at 14V, it "sees" 13V at the "dark blue" because of the troubles in the harness/ bulkhead.

BUT IT IS REGULATING at 14, so it RAMPS UP until that 13V is 14 AT THE DARK BLUE. But because there is a ONE VOLT drop between there and the battery, the battery sees 15 volts!!!

First thing I'd do is pull the bulkhead apart and inspect clean, then consider doing an "ammeter bypass" and clean and inspect the connector for the ignition.

I went further. On my 67, I installed a fuse / relay center out of a 90's Caravan, has several fuses/ relays inside.

I used one relay for "ignition run" IE ignition and alternator field, one each for low and high beams, and a third for the pump. I "threw in the towel" and converted the ammeter to a Sunpro voltmeter, and now the voltage in the system is pretty much "perfect."

The bulkhead has been eliminated. I just gutted it, and fed the new wiring through the connector holes.

(I do need to crawl in there and seal 'em with RTV)

Man, misery loves company. It's refreshing to see that a super sharp guy like Aaron can ALSO have problems not unlike the ones we're having with our project (turbo /6) car.

I hope you get it fixed soon, Aaron. Not wishing any bad luck on you, but the weather is keeping us from working on our ignition problem 'til it cools down, at least a little.

Heat stroke is no fun...:cwm10:

Hang in there; that thing is gonna FLY!!!
 
Both voltage readings are low. Make sure you have a good battery that's fully charged and retest. If still low, work your way back upstream toward the battery until you find the resistance. Get a good wiring diagram so you can trace the path without guessing.
 
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