You say it yourself, the HP levels you're talking about are only attainable with a turbocharged setup. No supercharged (of any sort) or NO2 engines could live at that output level. It's the harmonics and dynamics of the running engines that cause the caps to move, and then the main webbing to fail, assuming you can keep head gaskets and ring seal in it because the heads and bore walls move at those levels too. The thing to remember is the cost to properly prep a factory block vs the cost of a better one. It's simply not cost efficient to spend $3K+ on a factory block to get something that is as good as it can get, when you can buy a much better one pretty much ready to go for a small amount more. The last block I "maxxed out" was a $3300 bill for the block ready to assemble and that was several years ago. that included 4 Pro Gram billet caps, studs, lifter bore bushings, and the usual bore/hone/deck/etc. It lives just fine, but with the availability of better stuff now (Ritter would be my first choice rather than MP) it's just not worth it.
