Aftermarket Air 69 Dart 340-6pak

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2fine69s

69 340-6pak Rag Top
Joined
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Location
Elm City, N.C.
Hey guys,
Today I was trying to order an A/C and Heat unit from Classic Auto Air, for my 69 Dart. I am running a 340-6pak and am using the 69 cast iron water pump and a Griffin radiator for a 69 (inlet and outlet on the driver side). I am also using manual steering. They told me they did not offer one for the 69, only 70 and up with the aluminum water pump (difference in length). I don't want to space the pulley out as this will put too much stress on the pump bearing and seal and I do not think it will last or be safe. Does anyone know of a vender or has anyone ever made brackets for the a/c and idler for this combination? All of CAA's other parts will work perfectley, I just need to figure out how to mount it to the engine.
Thanks guys,
Martin
 
It shouldn't matter what water pump you are useing. Looking at my system you don't use the water pump for any thing more than mounting the pump bracket's on top. I would see if you can order a mount kit from them. Then go to a junk yard and get a sanden compressor, and see if you can mount it on the motor. Here are some pics of mine.
 

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Vintage Air sells a bracket kit for the 69 and earlier smallblocks. I can't remember the part no right off the top of my head. If you can't find it PM me and I'll look it up for you. In the pictures it shows in the instructions, it shows that it moves the alternator over to the drivers side. I bought one for my 67 Dart but haven't installed it yet.
 
Hey Jaws,
Did you make any of these brackets or did they come in a kit. Who's Kit? Also, do you think the top copressor bracket will work with a six pack? Is it too close for the Mopar altenator to be mounted in the stock location? I know this is lot of questions, but I'm trying to weigh out my use of parts from CAA, Vintage and what you're using to do what I want. I like your Idler set up, did you make it? I've asked Lemondana for help with Vintage brackets also.
Thanks again,
Martin
 
Thanks Rob,
I did contact them and this is the response I got....
"Without power steering , we do not make a bracket that will work.
Thank You
Bouchillon Performance Engineering"
 
All the brackets, bolts,spacers, and idler, came in the classic kit. The GM alternator is in the stock Mopar location, so yours should be fine.
 
Jaws,
Do you by chance have the part number of the kit that you used? CAA tells me I must use the PS to use their Idler. Bouchillon says "Without power steering , we do not make a bracket that will work." If I could get the same kit that you have, with the idler not in contact with the PS, I think I could make it work. I just don't want to order the CAA kit and it has the idler for PS.
Martin
 
The paper work I have just says for A body with out air 67-72. The mounting bracket kit number is 3009, and I went out to double check, my brackets don't use the power steering brackets.
 
can i get some more pictures of the overall look of the engine bay with the sanden moputed there? i was planning on making my own mounts to put an sd7 down where the mechanical fuel pump used to live, but your install doesnt look as bad as the pics that caa have.

thanks
Michael
 
See if this works.
 

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can i get some more pictures of the overall look of the engine bay with the sanden moputed there? i was planning on making my own mounts to put an sd7 down where the mechanical fuel pump used to live, but your install doesnt look as bad as the pics that caa have.

thanks
Michael

Any chance you can keep me posted on the location of the A/C compressor. I want A/C for my 68 Dart but I want it low, not up top.

Thank you
Mark
 
this is how i mounted mine , because i didnt want it in front of the carbi

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please, do tell. thats exactly what im going for. im assuming no power steering though, correct?
and more pictures please, from every angle of your engine bay. i love it from what i can see so far.
Michael
 
thats right , no power steer . This is a right hand drive Australian Valiant which is the same more or less as a 67 dodge dart , not sure thatll make a difference ( i doubt it)

i fitted the sanden pump to where the alternator normally lives because that head is further back to give more room , then swapped the alternator to the other side .
as the air con pump is as far back as possible i then used that as a start point to line all the other pulleys up . then it just a case of getting the right pulleys and spacing them out to get everything to line up.

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the brackets for everything were standard but modified alternator ones exept the alternator bracket which i made as were the spacers

see if these pics help
cheers
ben
 
so spent a couple hours piddling and raiding my parts bins today. i love having leftovers from all sorts of stuff In my magic bolt bins. Ive got stuff from Honda's, race cars, corvettes, tractors, industrial equipment, etc. so don't ask me what some of the spacer stock came from, cause i REALLY don't know. ill wind up remaking some of it so it doesn't look cobbled together from my magic bolt bins.


but a long story short: the guy from Tasmania's setup will probably work with power steering. i will have to use 4 groove crank pulley and a 2 groove water pump pulley though, due to my edelbrock heads being a little further protruding than his iron heads.


i used a spare Chinese chrome alternator bracket swapped around a bit, and located it on the drivers side. lined up perfectly with the existing drilled and tapped hole. had to use a couple of longer bolts, though, as the ARP's just didn't have enough thread engagement. also made a temporary spacer behind the bracket on the upper bolt, as the power steering pump bracket spaced it out too much from the water pump to fudge.

this led to some interesting belt routing necessities, as the alternator pulley was now in line with the power steering pump pulley. my solution is to solid mount the alternator above the power steering pump, and adjust belt tension with an idler pulley which also helps route the belt away from the water pump pulley where it would otherwise rub. the idler is actually an AC idler assembly from a d-series Honda motor from a CRX i built three times.

on the AC pump side, the compressor fit well once i removed the radiator fans as the motor on the one was contacting the compressor clutch. i also had to remove my previously fabbed fuel pressure regulator (that was leaking from the mechanical fuel pump block off plate) so i could tuck it in some more. i believe that with the AC style pulleys, i will have a good belt routing for this one as well.


and now the interesting stuff, the AC compressor/brackets. mind you, its nowhere near finished, but more of a proof of concept thing. let me know if you see potential issues.

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more later when i have some more time. need to build a wiring harness for a mobile soda blaster in the next couple of weeks, then thrash on this car to get ready for RTTH.
 
Vintage Air has a bracket kit for the cast iron water pump (1969 and earlier). Part No. is 15120-VMB.. It has no idler and can be used without PS I believe. It shows in the instructions that it moves the alternator to the drivers side, if you can live with that?
 
thats right , no power steer . This is a right hand drive Australian Valiant which is the same more or less as a 67 dodge dart , not sure thatll make a difference ( i doubt it)

i fitted the sanden pump to where the alternator normally lives because that head is further back to give more room , then swapped the alternator to the other side .
as the air con pump is as far back as possible i then used that as a start point to line all the other pulleys up . then it just a case of getting the right pulleys and spacing them out to get everything to line up.

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the brackets for everything were standard but modified alternator ones exept the alternator bracket which i made as were the spacers

see if these pics help
cheers
ben
ok, i tried setting mine up just like yours. its not working. the oly difference i can see is that your compressor mount bracket is slap up against your compressor ear, whereas mine has some space.

i keep throwing compressor belts. well, keep turning them inside out and throwing them.
checked pulley spacing, alignemnet in all planes, etc. still throwing them. tried different belt tensions, different belts. no luck.
and to top it all off, i destroyed my power steering/alt belt as well. so its not looking like i did something right compared to your success.

whats the deal? my car is now completely unreliable, and i cant figure out why. everything lines up, and shoudl be working properly!!

michael
 
i never said it was easy.
post up a pic with all the belts and pulleys etc so we can see whats up

ben
are you in the northern hemisphere or the southern ?
 
Here is my set up I just had installed by Nostalgic Air Parts in Tampa, Florida. Best setup I've seen yet. They remove the heater/blower box completely and put in their own unit in it's place. Hooked it up to my original controls so only other control used is the thermostat.
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im in the northern hemisphere. dunno why that would make a difference, though. motor would still turn the same way, right? i know the toilets flush the other direction down there, but....


anyway, heres a TON of pictures fo the final design, and the ensuing carnage. the first belt that actually fit lasted about 100 miles before it started coming off, then got shredded. the second (good green stripe gates) hasnt stayed on for more than 15 miles at a stretch. it os now shredded pretty good. i did change the mounting bolt afer the first belt to a single long bolt instead of two seperate bolts like yours. didnt help.
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my only thoughts are that the compressor is vibrating at the top inside corner, allowing the belt to climb the walls of the groove, turn itself insode out, and come off. but thats an extreme stretch. my other thaught ois that the compressor is taking so much tourque to turn that its stretching the belt like a rubber band, and when the compressor clutch disengages or the rpms change, its doing a whiplash thing and coming off.

i have no idea why the other belt came apart like it did, though. it had no warning signs or issues until BAM! nothing left. im thinking that the old belt i reused didnt like being bent into its new purpose. probably just change that out with a cog style and put it back together.

whjat are your ideas?

Michael
 
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