Sub Frame connector conundrum
I did mine like this:
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml
Thicker stiffer metal goes back to the spring perch/box area (dont want those chassis points moving around if the suspension is going to do its job), welds directly to the front torsion bar crossmember.
Not like the basically worthless Mopar subframes, and not using the wafer thin floorpan for "strength" like the laser cut deals. I can move the floorpan around by hand.
Yes, the car is stiffer. Doors close better, even when its up on stands. Drives better like the suspension is absorbing the bumps rather than body flex, and fewer squeaks and rattles too. (Credit to Dave Phillips for the time, lift, fab and welding.)
My install:
See how far they go back?
Beefy!
UNless you get reaallyy low, no one ever sees them
After:
I did mine like this:
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml
Thicker stiffer metal goes back to the spring perch/box area (dont want those chassis points moving around if the suspension is going to do its job), welds directly to the front torsion bar crossmember.
Not like the basically worthless Mopar subframes, and not using the wafer thin floorpan for "strength" like the laser cut deals. I can move the floorpan around by hand.
Yes, the car is stiffer. Doors close better, even when its up on stands. Drives better like the suspension is absorbing the bumps rather than body flex, and fewer squeaks and rattles too. (Credit to Dave Phillips for the time, lift, fab and welding.)
My install:
See how far they go back?
Beefy!
UNless you get reaallyy low, no one ever sees them
After:
