Power everywhere, but no spark
Going to try hot wiring it in the morning. If that works I will know its the switch.
Sorry, but no, you won't. Might be the switch, connectors, wiring, bulkhead connector, or maybe the linkage OPERATING the switch.
I am going to switch to a toggle switch for the ignition and a push button to start the car. Does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to do this?
Not trying to make you angry here, but this is a REAL stupid way to fix a problem
WHAT ARE you using for an igniton, IE points, Mopar ECU, MSD, etc?
You need to learn to troubleshoot, we'll be glad to help. You need a meter and a 12v test lamp. Buy 'em both at any parts store for less than 25 bucks. I was just in O'Reillys the other night, and they have a digi meter for 17 bucks
You have three separate circuits coming from the ignition switch during start:
Traditionally yellow, hot during "start" energises the start relay
Traditionally brown is hot during start, bypasses the ballast resistor, and supplies hot 12V for start, this goes to the coil side of the ballast
Traditionally dark blue is "ignition run" supplies the switch side of the ballast resistor during engine run
All of these circuits go through the bulkhead connector, the connector at the bottom of the column, and on older dash ignition cars, the connector at the back of the switch.
ALL these points, including the switch, are a source of failure,
BUT FIRST you need to figure out if it really is or is NOT getting battery power to the ignition, or whether it is a problem IN the ignition system itself.
So turn the ignition switch to "run" engine off. Take your meter and measure the voltage (if you still have a ballast) at the "dark blue." You should have VERY close to battery voltage, within 1/2 volt.
Then, clip the meter to the coil side of the ballast, and prop up the meter so you can see it while operating the key. Twist the key to "start" so the engine cranks and read the meter. Move the meter probe to the battery and do this again. Both these readings should be close to each other, and ABOVE 10.5 volts.
If the two tests above prove OK, this means that your ignition is getting voltage, and the problem is right there at the ignition system.
We still need to know what you are running for a system??
DO YOU have a shop manual? Wiring diagram?
Download a free factory manual here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
"Alternative" diagrams from My Mopar:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
Diagrams are in two parts:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1971/71DartA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1971/71DartB.JPG
