11 second street car?

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stubnosebrock

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Hey guys. This is my first post. Im looking at purchasing a 72 Plymouth Scamp. The car is a stock 2 barrel 318 with a set a headers with an auto tranny. Ive mainly been into Chevys when it comes to older stuff, but have always wanted an old Mopar. Im curious as to what it would take to get this car in the mid 11's, or close to it. I would want this car naturally aspirated. I know its a pretty vague question, but im just looking to get an idea of what kind of investment I would have in the car. Im sure the 318 is out. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!!
 
Build a nice 360 based stroker motor. Talk to Brian at IMM engines. He is a member here and will send you on the right direction. Fact is he has an engine for sale that he built for Car Craft magizine. Check out the for sale section.
 
Shipping is cheap...

There are good builders in every corner of the country. Find the one you are comfortable with, know your goals and go with it.

It doesn't really take a bunch of engine to run high 11's. Building a 360 would be the easiest or a HUGE shot of juice on that 318. :)

Don't know a budget. A stroker would be cake to get there and would run in the 6K+ range is my guess. Here's something that would get you there and likely a little less $ than a stroker.
360
kb107's 9.5:1 ish
RHS 2.02 heads
Comp XS282S cam
RPM/air gap
750-950 holley
Headers

Should make a solid 450hp and capable of moving you in the 11's, deep in the 11's, with a good chassis set up. A decent size hydraulic cam would do it as well. ET is about chassis efficiency/converter and less about engine.

Have fun with it!
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I really do appreciate it! I would like to keep it on the cheaper side, but I also know you have to pay to play. I figured a 360 would be my cheapest/easiest route. Any certain year blocks I should be looking for? Of course, I havent bought the car yet, and it isnt written in stone, but if it works out, I like to be prepared.
 
If the car is solid, but base level, figure somewhere around $12-14K beyond the initial cost to get it safe, mid 11s legal, and reliable as a street car.
 
might as well go bb, I know that I will go bb if I ever think about stroker. my engine should be mid 11s without a stroker and its a 360 that runs on 91 with the heads done by brian at IMM and cam from him as well.
 
Any year 360 is fine. Less overbore the better for a stronger stiffer cyclinder wall. The earlier ones are rumored to be thicker wall casting, some have de-bunked it.
 
Fst73_360 said:
might as well go bb, I know that I will go bb if I ever think about stroker. my engine should be mid 11s without a stroker and its a 360 that runs on 91 with the heads done by brian at IMM and cam from him as well.
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A friend offered me a 440 in a truck for $500, but im not so sure i want to go through that kind of work.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Any year 360 is fine. Less overbore the better for a stronger stiffer cyclinder wall. The earlier ones are rumored to be thicker wall casting, some have de-bunked it.
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I thought i remember reading somewhere that the magnums had some weird push rod geometry that made them not such a good performance platform. Any truth to that?
 
Id go with a small block stroker using a 360 block. I wouldn't go big block, they cost a bit more, are heavier, and somewhat harder to fit, but thats my preference...I like my 408 stroker that dyno'd at 530 HP and 520 ft lbs...I like stroker smallblocks that beat most big blocks. lol
 
stubnosebrock said:
I thought i remember reading somewhere that the magnums had some weird push rod geometry that made them not such a good performance platform. Any truth to that?
Click to expand...

? I have the magnum heads on my 360 and Brian at IMM projects 480-500hp at crank.
 
Brians first Car Craft build is exactly what you need call him ,be totally honest with him and yourself about how the car will be used and he will get you in the low 11's maybe high 10's for somewhere over 7k including carb ,wires ,billet distributor and water pump which are things most places charge extra for . shipping is pretty cheap in your country and he includes a mopar sb specific engine stand in the shipping crate ,try buying one of those at your local pep boy's , best value for your buck I could find and great people to deal with
 
I checked out Brians website, and saw the build of his Duster. Hes running 10's with a stock crank and rods??? Are these Mopar bottom ends that good? I doubt a SBC could do that unless it had a Gm steel crank.
 
I think the Magnum is a pretty affordable deal if you can find a good stock short block. I run that in mine, and it goes 11.90s in the heat. Note that affordable is relative.

Only trick with these is that you have to gear in the 3.9x - 4.11 range to get the good numbers out of them. Some people (including me) don't like that so much on the street.


Push rod geometry on a Magnum is slightly worse than a small block LA (which isn't the greatest either). Hydraulic roller lifters are worth it. My magnum turns 6500 through the traps on every pass, doesn't give me any issues, and I'm running the super heavy stock Magnum rockers.

I'm sure you're aware that running these numbers needs suspension and good transmission/converter in addition to horsepower. The 904 is a good choice for a buildup as it is lighter and uses less HP than the 727.

I think Brian has a small block stroker in the car now, with the RHS X heads.

I read that on his website too. I'm guessing he internally balanced the stock crank? The 360 cranks are not internal balance from the factory. Mopar rods and cranks seem to be pretty decent. I'm sure it depends a lot more on RPM than ET.
 
stubnosebrock said:
I thought i remember reading somewhere that the magnums had some weird push rod geometry that made them not such a good performance platform. Any truth to that?
Click to expand...

No. If you want to split a hair 5 times and then try again, the Magnum head is simliar to a chevy head in the valve train area. The older MoPar engines have the rockers on a shaft which is a stronger and better way to do things. But the differences are small and correctable with the aftermarket.
Magnum heads will use that gridle like you would on a chevy to help keep the valves and spring where they need to be.

The Magnum is a good head. The aftermarket Magnum are even better.

Fst73_360 said:
? I have the magnum heads on my 360 and Brian at IMM projects 480-500hp at crank.
Click to expand...

Case in point proved above. No need to do this---> :banghead: In order to get things done. I beileve Brain to be a good fella and IMO, I think he would help you out, no problem.
It's just he's in Cali. and Shadydell is closer in Pa. Whatever you do, these guys rock. Both of them.

mopardude318 said:
small block chevies are junk
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Exactly. (Well,kind of) I used to do Chevies. Key word, USED TO. Not anymore. While alot of Chevy stuff is cheaper to do, there are short comings and bonus's to each engine from every manufacturer I just liked the MoPars better. They have allways proved stronger and more durable by a wide magin.
Time and time again. Year after year.

stubnosebrock said:
I checked out Brians website, and saw the build of his Duster. Hes running 10's with a stock crank and rods??? Are these Mopar bottom ends that good? I doubt a SBC could do that unless it had a Gm steel crank.
Click to expand...

Yes. I myself have a 360 in the high 11's and it is still externaly balanced. Stock 1979 cast crank, OE rods, block, flywheel and balancer. It uses the KB-107 slugs. I still consider this a low stress engine.

It's top with Edelbrocks RPM heads and intake with a 750. Super Comp headers exit the gas, a Comp solid cam is inside as well as the rocker set up, which includes the bar the rockers are on.

The rest? '73 Cuda, 4spd w/4.10's riding on super stock springs.

You need not spin (RPM) the engine alot to make power in a MoPar. If you do or need to, there are oil mods that MUST be followed or you'll do some serious damage. :thumbdow:
 
mopardude318 said:
small block chevies are junk
Click to expand...
I agree!
I built a 408 from my 360 with eddy heads and a air gap manifold and 282 solid comp cam that runs 11's at 5800'. It's pretty straightforward to build a 408 that will make 450 hp, which is enough to get you into the 11's in a 3200# car.
 
LOL @ 66! Torque baby! Comes on quick and strong and it dont let up.
(Kind of like that chick I metin the bar lastyear....yikes! LOL! )
 
66dartman said:
I agree!
I built a 408 from my 360 with eddy heads and a air gap manifold and 282 solid comp cam that runs 11's at 5800'. It's pretty straightforward to build a 408 that will make 450 hp, which is enough to get you into the 11's in a 3200# car.
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if your going to build a stroker, put a cam in it to take the chance to put the engine to its full potential. 450 from a stroker is not that much. When I see stroker and spend money like that it should make at least 500hp.
 
Then again, I'm sure it's performing in the RPM range he wants as well as in concert with the rest of the car. ;)

Not alot of cam in a light car still running the 11's with a lower RPM range on that cam, it must be a brute torque making engine and a pure pleasure to drive.

OH! Nice screen name change. Hows the cardeit coming along?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Then again, I'm sure it's performing in the RPM range he wants as well as in concert with the rest of the car. ;)

Not alot of cam in a light car still running the 11's with a lower RPM range on that cam, it must be a brute torque making engine and a pure pleasure to drive.

OH! Nice screen name change. Hows the cardeit coming along?
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im away for school so its only when Im able to drive up that I can work on the car. I have the heads and cam and intake from Brian that I need to take home.

Then decide if Im going to paint entire car or just engine bay or what. And then start taking crap off I dont need and fill in the holes
 
Nice. Looking foward to what the scales say.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Nice. Looking foward to what the scales say.
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ya I figured there are guys with 74s that way not that much and 73 is suppose to be lighter and im losing all the power stuff and heater stuff, that I should be fine. Also replacing original carpet with light weight carpet. Hoping for 3100 before I start adding fiberglass trunk and front bumper.

Also 74 duster 360 weighs in at 3300 pounds while the 72 is at 3100
http://www.mymopar.com/vehicleweights.htm
 
You just keep loossin it off the front first. See if you can beat the bushes for a lighter way to mount the front bumper. Those moster round shocks for the 5mph crash are flippin heavy things for there size.

You'll getthere. These Dusters can get preety light before going race car drastic.
 
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