Electronic Ignition Conversion HELP

Judging on where they are, the first one goes to just what it's lying on--your washer motor.

I believe the second is probably the brake warning light, goes down the fender by the frame to the warning light switch.

You say it won't "turn over." Do you mean it won't crank, or that it will crank the engine on the starter but won't fire?

DEFINITIONS:

"turn over." same as "crank" as in the engine goes round on the starter

"fire" engine runs on it's own either briefly or starts and runs

"runs" engine continues to run.

The browns --one comes directly from the ign switch and is hot in "start" provides 12V for a hot spark to the COIL + (coil side of resistor) It SHOULD already be wired up

The "new diagram" talking about the yellow is wrong in this case, it is referring in your case to the brown, but again, your brown should already be wired up

The "other ECU" you mentioned is actually the voltage regulator and appears to be wired OK.

Don't mess with the yellow on your starter relay. It is SPECIFICALLY to run the starter relay (from the key) in "start" when the other push on terminal is grounded by the clutch/ neutral safety switch.

So you have three important, separate circuits in a Mopar ignition for "start"

Yellow, from the key, is hot in "start" and fires the starter relay

Brown, from key, provides 12V directly to coil in start

Blue , from key, provides "ignition run" when key is released to "run." This feeds ignition system through resistor, the alternator field, the regulator, electric choke if used, and I don't remember, possibly retard solenoid if used on distributor, and possibly idle solenoid if used.

IT IS IMPORTANT to check the blue for voltage drop.

With everything wired up, turn key to "run" engine OFF. Put one probe of your meter directly on the battery, the other probe where you can reach a "dark blue" connection, like the resistor. You should see NO more than 1/2 volt, and that is generous. More indicates a voltage drop from the battery, fuse link, through the bulkhead connector, to the ammeter circuit, to the ign switch connector, through the switch, back out the switch connector, and back out through the bulkhead. ALL these points can add to and cause volt drop.

My dart, before I did a partial re-wire, had a ONE VOLT drop and was causing an overcharge condition as well as hard starting.