Engine failure after oil change

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sas73 said:
I suppose I'll need to pull the engine and transmission together, since I can't rotate the crank to uncouple them. Is there any other way?
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Yeah, you can just pull the torque converter with the engine. I have done it many times.
 
I was putting a rear main seal in for a man once and had left it on the bench. A 45 year old ( kid ) friend of mine picked up the rear main cap I had ready to put in and the bearing went flying. I came out from under the truck mad as a hornet, cussing and went straight for the bearing. Finding it undamaged I cooled off a little. I had not noticed him stuff the lower portion of the rear main seal in backwards. Moral of this story is **** happens don't be so hard on yourself!
 
It happens. Pull engine and trans together, and then pull the trans off the convertor, and you can reach the bolts.
 
I've removed the radiator, water pump, carburetor, disconnected everything else, and am ready to pull it this week, if I have time.

I'm just going to remove it with the transmission attached. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the cross member to do this? Any tricks on how to position the car?

What is the preferred way to connect the hoist? I plan on getting a hoist plate to connect to the manifold, but if there are other options, I'd love to hear about them.

I'll post some photos when I can assess the damage.
 
You can do it carefully with the hood on, but it's easier with it removed. Yes, the trans crossmember must be removed, and if it's an early one with cable shift it may be easier to just disconnect from the shifter than remove from case. (I havent pulled the cables from the case before, so others can chime in with directions for that...) If you have a spare slip yoke for the transmission (if it's the slip yoke type) it will stop any leaking from the trans tailshaft while you pull it. I've never used a lift plate. I've always used the same old chain and bolts...lol. But whatever you are comfortable with, and allows for the engine to be tilted fairly steeply easilly. Have some rags or speedy dry/cat litter handy because you will drip fluids in the process, especially coolant, so watch for pets...
 
Engine and trans together is a long assembly that will need a steep angle going out or back in. How tall are your jack stands ? Thes things are much simpler when you have all the right equipment.
If you should run out of hoist travel you would need to remove the stands and even let the air out of the front tires. Been there done that but it was a truck.
Rememeber the springs or in our case torsion bars will lift the vehicle as the engine and trans weight is lifted so what looks like plenty of hoist at the start may not be enough in the end. Just trying to help you develop a good plan of attack.
 
Thanks Redfish and moper for the advice.

My front tires are on 9 inch ramps and I have jack stands that extend to 16 inches. I've recruited two friends for help. I'm planning on doing it in my garage which is large and open, but only has 8 foot ceilings.

I'm wondering which holes are best to attach the chains to. There are multiple options on the front of the engine, but I'm not sure which is best to hook up on the back side. I don't see a lot of options. There is one bolt just below the passenger side valve cover for grounding to the firewall. There are a couple bolts on the manifold on the driver side that held a bracket that look pretty stout. With the transmission on, should I position the chain attachments differently?

Thanks again for the advice so far.
 
the heads are identical just switched end to end. Whatever hole you have at the front of one is at the back of the other, i.e. neg battery cable bolt hole left front , chassis ground strap right rear. A diagonal chain there will work pulling engine alone. I wouldn't trust it pulling engine and trans together. The chain will travel through the hook, possibly faster and farther then expected. Tail shaft housings can destroy header panels grilles, hands, etc...

I just dont know how to configure a chain or chains when pulling both at once.
A load leveler might be the best advise, although shifting the load in flight isn't exactly what they are meant for.
Everyone does things differently. I prefer to tilt the trans enough to access those upper bell housing bolts and leave it right there so it all goes right back together.
Straps around the torsion bars will support the trans which frees up the floor jack for other uses.
 
I had a 318 that had a leak from a cracked oil filter mount. It would only leak while the engine was running so no huge oil spots on the driveway. Motor finnally blew up from frequent low oil conditions. Broken crankshaft and 2 broken main caps and I drove it home like that about a 15 mile drive. Sounded like a jack hammer. I threw in a new crank bearings and a couple of new main caps and it still had the low oil problems. Had to get under the car with the motor running to find the leak from the filter mount.
 
I got the engine and transmission out pretty easily for the first time I've ever done it. Opened the oil pan and found the remains of the bearings for connecting rods 1 and 2, as well as several pieces of material I can't identify. Anyone recognize what these pieces are from( the third picture)? Part of a tappet?

The connecting rod bearings for number 1 and 2 were dry as a bone, as was the counterweights in that section (fourth picture). I will have to look for the reason for that.

I will have to see what the machine shop says about if the crankshaft is salvageable. Any thoughts?
 

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the poor little engine just may have been worn out. Upon starting with fresh oil by the time pressure built up it was too late.

yeah straight 30 weight or 20w-50 might place more drag on the engine but it does offer longer protection. Fram oil fiters I have heard horror stories about, I shell out for K&N filters and try my best to fill the filter with oil before install.

Good luck at the machine shop
 
An oil filter and/or oil changed didn't do all that.

It was on the very edge of going. If you would have leaned on the fender too hard it could have made that blow.

Off topic rant...

I feel for repair shops that get cars in for oil changes that are ticking time bombs. Then they get blammed by some unsuspecting and unreasonable car owner that never maintained thier vehicle.

...rant off
 
I've had the old o-ring from the filter stick on the engine when it was removed. Knew a guy this happend to and blew the engine in his vette. Oil leaked out between the two O-rings. I always check to make sure the old one is off the motor and still on the old filter when it comes off. sorry to hear about your engine. I agree with bohico on the 318. Good luck.
 
I think I would keep the adjustable rocker assemblies, timing cover, oil pan, etc., and put a later model 318 in the heart of it.
 
I have been following your post. Too bad it happened. It's easy to get distracted for sure. I have been wrenching on cars since the late 60's and have never forgot the drain plug. A few months ago I forgot to refill the oil in Mom's van. The old 3.8 still lives but has a piston rattle when cold that it didn't have before. If I were you I would find another engine like a 318 close to yours that can be bolted in without many modifications. Yours may be saved but at a large expense. toolman
 
[IF YOU PUT THE OIL PLUG IN,,, ALWAYS,, ALWAYS HAVE A WRENCH IN HAND TO TIGHTEN IT,, IF YOU DON'T , TAKE THE PLUG OUT... NEVER ! ! NEVER LEAVE A LOOSE PLUG IN THE HOLE[/QUOTE]


Thats what my Wife says also, about the loose plug :cry:
 
I did change my jets once took the old jets out and forgot to put in the new jets. Install the fuel bowl back on and I hopped in the car ready for a drive, start it up and gee the motor was idling really rough, then I see the different jets lying by my tool box, lol
 
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