Should I get a 360 motor/tranny

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1973dusterkid

1973dusterkid

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I was looking on craigslist and saw mopar 360 motor and a 727 tranny got 200 dollars now the motor needs work but its all there.I was wondering it I put a 360 in my duster if I would have to change anything,I know I have to changer mounts but will I have to change/stiffen frame
 
The factory V8 cars had different torsion bars if you are switching from a /6. I checked back on some of your other posts and see that your cars is a /6. Does it have disc or drum front brakes, not that that makes a difference. The torsion bars don't have to be changed either, but it will probably handle the extra weight a little if you do!
 
I have also been contemplating and researching the same swap and I thought that the /6 cars that came with a/c also had the same suspension and torsion bars as the V8 cars. I am still new to A bodies so someone please correct me if I am wrong.
 
check my first post again I was editing as you were typing your answer! Lowkota I can't answer your question as thats the first time I,ve heard of the ac / suspension thing. I don't know of any real have to's for the swap. You can get schumaker mounts for the swap and they only suggest changing the torsion bars. I personally would like to have disc brakes up front if I made the change
 
Drive shaft and throttle cable for sure, radiator probably, speedometer drive gear in the trans. Depending on what the 360 came out of you may need offset oil filter adapter and different oil pan.
 
RedFish is right I was assuming the 360 was out of another a body. I guess i fell into the old cliche' about assuming! But still yet nothing major as far as suspension or frame stiffening!
 
If I made the change I'd go with the 360 as the old saying goes "there is no replacement for displacement"
 
I did a /6 to 318 swap in my 72 duster without a torsion bar replacement and it handles just fine.
 
I have no idea how someone came up with a /6 car w/AC has the same suspension... they have absoultely nothing to do with each other.


Anyway....

I also did a /6 to V8 swap and the T-bars are fine for the street. A set of V8 bars like a set for a 383 provide a nice stiff ride, not a bone jarring ride.
Drum brakes should most certainly be changed out for disc up front! IMO, a trip to the junk yard for a set of Dakots rear disc's would also be an excellent idea.
 
There are several different diameter/spring rate torsion bars. I wouldn't be at all surprised if a loaded slant car had a 8.25 rear and/or the same size/number torsion bars as some 318 baer model cars had. The slant does throw its weight harder to the right side bar.
Any torsion bar will hold the car up if the adjust bolts are cranked up high enough. The difference is in the spring rate and handling. Think a torsion bar can break ? It is possible and dangerous loss of control is likely. The very largest bars for big block cars may be too stiff for some. I guess if you want it the way the factory built it you would first need to identify the bars you have and compare them to what factory charts list for your build.
 
I think everyone should have at least one 360/727. So yes... get it.
I can't tell you how many drum brake, factory torsion bar cars we built with /6 bars. The difference isnt very much, and in fact the weight of the 225 is very similar to a small V8. Less than a passenger's weight. Improvements CAN be made, but most certainly don't HAVE to be made at the same time. You will have to upgrade the rear once the 7 1/4 blows up tho.
 
According to the parts manuals all /6 cars with air got larger diameter torsion bars...the same size bars as 318 cars. This was done to compensate for the extra weight of the compressor etc. My 73 /6 with factory a/c had 318 bars in it. Those came out and solo road racing bars went in...a little stiff with the /6 but now that a 360 is going in should handle great... So you need discs up front for sure(as rumblefish suggested), a larger rear; the 7.25 won't handle the pressure for long. If the trans is a 727 you will need a different drive shaft to match the rear you go with. I got a new rad..The /6 has both inlet and outlet on the passenger side so not sure if you could make the rad work with the v8...

So like above there's no replacement for displacement...lol And there is lots of performance parts for the 360 too.
 
The guy said the motor has been sitting outside dose not turn over but has a aluminum intake and 727 tranny for 200
 
Hoooooly crap!!!!!!!! (T-bar issue) Aint that some chit! I sit corrected and schooooled.
Though I think the extra weight is a laffable amount.... but what do I know, the factory did it for a reason and thats that.

Dusterkid, if your up for a classic rebuilding of an engine, this is your ticket.
 
Major Ditto's Rumblefish, Thanks for the info on the rear disc setup! Do you think I might need a big block bar on the right to off set my fat A#@!
 
I'd go grab the 360/tranny before it's gone. At least it's complete and if your in auto shop it'll make a great project! And if you cant afford to build it right now just put it aside for now.

I'd say the biggest issue you will face putting it in is if you have a 7 1/4 diff. That will need to go if you have one and you'll need at least an 81/4 or equivalent.
 
if you get it, I have a full 360 bottom end ready to sell you. less than 600 miles 360 .10 under crank with ARP bolts on the reconditioned rods and kb107 pistons
 
dovercrossing said:
Major Ditto's Rumblefish, Thanks for the info on the rear disc setup! Do you think I might need a big block bar on the right to off set my fat A#@!
Click to expand...

No problem. I PM'd ya to see if ya found anything.

Off set sized T-bars? Naaaaa. You can crank one side up a little more than the otherside to have the car sit level while your in it. I do this myself and I'm under 200 lbs.
 
I kinda figured I I am not dogging it :angel2: and am just going to school work ill be fine with a 360 and and the rear end it has now because these will be a motor that looks and sounds nasty but dose not have that much go
 
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