Automotive Paint -What can't you mix? How long can it store?

Urethanes
Enamels
Acrylics
Lacquers
If I use oil based rustolium as a primer, what can I paint over it?
Por 15 and Lizard skin is expensive for us dollar scraping guys!

How risky is it to buy used paint or por 15 or other paint related chemicals used from craigslist -or even ebay? Can I mix similiar or dissimiliar chemical paints?
Is isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol good enough as a surface prep after sanding?

What do you use to clean the gun with when painting with the aforementioned chemicals? It's different from one paint to the next right? mineral spirits?

Go here and post lyour question, these guys will set you straight. I have been painting and doing body work since I was a teen and I am over 40 now, and have learned plenty.

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

Not to mention that understanding the whole concept and principles of body work and paint prep would take years of practical expericence to gain a full understanding of how each one is different. I'm not trying to down play your end goals here, but you have much better success and a better overall product if you put your VERY HARD EARNED dollars into quality products from ONE paint line. Mix and match paint products usually is a recipe for disater and ends up costing you twice as much in the end because you tried to cut corners. Remember body work is EXPENSIVE,materials are EXPENSIVE, ans supplies are (you know whats coming) EXPENSIVE. So my two cents worth is either bite the bullet and pay for a quality job, educate yourself on the proper techniques, and materials needed for a quality job, and save your self alot of headache later on because your paint is reacting with your undercoats and bubbles up, peels, falls off or what ever else my happen. Body work is just like anything else the more time and effort you put into it the better the results will be. Now all this aside there are some very affordable products out there that will deliver outstanding results if used properly, such as Kirker, UPOL, and others. Hope this helps.

What 440 abody said X2. I am doing my own body & paint and I have a lot of experience and it is still hard for me to get it right. If you have to do it yourself, find a friend with experience and pick his brain. Then you will have a shot. So far for mine I have bought epoxy primer, european primer polyurethane single stage color, clear, gun wash, all catylists and reducers and still have to by the sealer I will shoot just before color. Do your homework and get good advice and you should be fine for your first time. Best of luck!
Rat.

DesertRat said:

What 440 abody said X2. I am doing my own body & paint and I have a lot of experience and it is still hard for me to get it right. If you have to do it yourself, find a friend with experience and pick his brain. Then you will have a shot. So far for mine I have bought epoxy primer, european primer polyurethane single stage color, clear, gun wash, all catylists and reducers and still have to by the sealer I will shoot just before color. Do your homework and get good advice and you should be fine for your first time. Best of luck!
Rat.

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dp epoxy primer is a sealer, thin it out with some dt870 and your good to go, actually I always thin it no matter what coat it is.

Thank you guys
Any other input anyone else has is very welcome.

yea, never clean your gun with lacquer if spraying with enamal paints !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is there an epoxy sealer in any of the clear coat paints? I live on the east coast, and if you can believe it, there is salt or some form of alkaline ph in the air here right off the coast that would corrode automotive clear coat (on all of the older local cars) , non- -ferrous alloys, and chrome significantly enough to notice when I was last on shore duty-while paying attention to all of the cars on base/locally.

res1vw21 said:

dp epoxy primer is a sealer, thin it out with some dt870 and your good to go, actually I always thin it no matter what coat it is.

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They don't make Dp epoxy anymore, haven't for about 10 years. They do in fact make a DPLF epoxy which is Lead free. Being that it is lead free it lost a bit of pigment and doesn't cover near as well as the old DP. . I have always used Dp's 2:1 with no troubles.

I can get ahold of some lead epoxy-would it matter at all what color it was if I used it for my initial foundation over the metal?