Are ARP head bolts really needed for a mild build?

oliver said

I'm building a pretty mild .060 over 340, kb243's, h beams, ported j's w/ stainless valves, chambers at 66cc, .550 lift solid roller, around 10.5:1 comp 4 speed, 3.9 gears. Planning to spin it to about 7k at the most. I'm not one to cheap out on things like fasteners, but after looking at the stock bolts and realizing they are pretty beefy, im not too sure if they really need to be replaced. They are not stretch bolts, and im thinking some arp moly lube on the threads and let it rip. Anyone have any problems with stockers?

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I've reused the stock head bolts on many occassions and the only problem I experienced was during the torquing sequence. I did have some bolts that...yielded, and you could feel the torque wrench get real easy to turn just as you were pulling the last value.

I removed the defective bolt and replaced it with one from my 'bolt stash' and never looked backed. Never had any issues. But I don't recommend the "black grease" from ARP. Motor oil is what's recommended by the factory. The ARP grease could pull your bolt beyond yield values...

Also, the engines I rebuilt saw regular 7000 rpm blasts and I never showed them any mercy. They never broke, but the rings did finally give up after many years of beating them as I TRIED to blow them up. Damn them Chrysler engines ! If it had been a Shivvie, I could have done it - with ease. ~{:>)

Southernman