Are ARP head bolts really needed for a mild build?

They are not stretch bolts, and im thinking some arp moly lube on the threads and let it rip. Anyone have any problems with stockers?

I would reconsider using the moly lube on the threads before torquing. The torque specs are developed on the nuts and bolts as delivered from the manufacturer. Approximately 75 - 80 % of the torque for the bolts is affected by the friction of the threads. Adding moly lube to the threads will reduce that friction therefore increasing the clamp load or stretch of the bolt. Your bolt will be much tighter when you use the lube than when you don't. This could cause an overtorque condition with your bolts beyond what the spec was developed for. The torque specs are developed to put the bolt at the maximum allowed clamp for that bolt and nut combination to be slightly into the yeild point.

I woud recommend chasing the threads with a tap and die and then torquing them dry.

Let's just say that I used to be involved in developing torque specs and setting up the machines that tightened them. If anybody would put any other oil or lube on the nuts or bolts different than what was originally supplied on them, it would create many torque rejects.

fyi: The fastener group that developed the torque specs only recommended torquing them 5 times. The factory was allowed to torque them three times and leave two times for service/rebuild. Beyond that the connecting rod bolts could become overstretched and compromise clamp ability (break).

Also keep in mind that the factory has clamped the nuts and bolts on the connecting rods at least twice on a "first time through" engine where everything went well building. The first clamp cycle is made on the connecting rod machining line before they machine the crank journal bore. Then they get unclamped and assembled on the engine assembly line to be installed in the engine. So every engine that comes out of the factory has at least two clamp cycles on the nuts and bolts for the rods.