Pitman arm is hitting tortion bar! Help?

What you want for basics begins on page 336 entitled "Basic Steering Linkage Adjustment". There's a ton of graphs and charts in the section before that. Don't get lost in those. Just go to page 336, and look at the diagram on page 337 figure 7-67. THEN you'll see what I am talking about. There is also an illustration (7-68) on 337 regarding the steering box shim location and how they affect the "L1" measurement. You'll see. It is VERY simple and easy to understand. These cars were actually set up like this from the factory. That's exactly how it was done. Then, you can go on to page 338 and it shows you exactly how to position the idler arm correctly by filing the idler arm bracket holes (7-69) and using the proper shims there to adjust the "R1" measurement. It's simple. "L1" is the point where the pitman arm joins the center link and "R1" is the point where the idler arm joins the center link. These two points need to be the same distance from the floor with the wheels pointing straight ahead. You will see how to accomplish that and more. It is very simple to get it all correct.

That is the procedure for bump steer adjustment for a race car. Yes, it will help street cars. But should be overkill for what you are doing. It is not a normal procedure for this car and is not covered in the factory repair manual. That is just going to confuse you more.

I totally disagree that is the next step you need to do to you car. And no reason you needed to pay $$ to overnight the MP Race Chassis book to your house. And you really need a good measurement device or make one to get the bumpsteer right.

Your car should not need that adjustment. That would be a total last resort. You just want to get it back to stock and where the tie rod is not rubbing the T-bar.

I'll get some acuate measurments of parts tonight....

After looking for all damage, incorrect parts, bad adjustments, etc...then go into the bumpsteer shim and slot deal as described in the MP book.