? about coolent recovery

Well, guys last week I made it down to the local track, for some runs. Well It was a very busy night to say the least, everybody was there. The staging lanes took about 45 min to get to the front on the line. And that is only if there was no cleanup involved in between runs.

Well sitting in line for my second pass I noticed the car getting hot. I was sitting in line with it off. Only starting it to pull forward as needed. I noticed it was hot once I got to the front of the line and I tried to start her and she had a harder time turning over. But at that point it was to late.

The way the staging lane are design at the local track is once your in line there is noway to turn around without everyone behind you moving. So I told my self to just make it down the track, then park it to cool.

I did the burnout, staged, launched, All was good till 60ft smoke everywhere.

The system had built up to much pressure and blown the top Rad. hose off.
laying coolent on the track pissing everyone and thier mother off. Delaying the track runs for about 45min while they cleaned up.

My ? is currently I run a coolent chrome recovery bottle from Summit that is NOT vented, Could this be my problem. Should my coolent recovery system be vented to vent off the built up pressure.

What I was thinking is that. If it was vented it would have caught the overflow of the coolent, but vented off the high pressure at the same time preventing my hose from blowing off.

Please help me out, The car never had cooling problems before on the street and everything else checked out fine. I run a single elec. fan and it seems to be operating properly. I'm thinking of also replacing my 180* therm. with a 160* unit.

very good question, i have a similar setup and tend to build up lots of heat. though I was lucky enough so far to not got so far as to pop the top yet...

looking foirward to someone answering the question.

In my opinion yes it should be vented. It is an older design system. Originally designed for a 0 pressure venting system. It should have a tube or be plumbed into the bottom to return the fluid when it cools. The newer systems run a expansion tank system to keep it all under pressure.

The overflow tank needs to be vented. Fluid can't go in if air can't get out.

Chuck

thermostat swap wont help, it needs to be vented too. make sure your cap is working properly as well.

soo, just drill a hole or two in the top of the bottle?

shouldn't be a problem

Yup, my Moroso catch can has a little hole in the top of it. Can't tell you my drill sizes too well, probably the diameter of a hanger. lol

Also if you guys plumb the line from the radiator to the BOTTOM of the catch can, it will recover and recirculate any coolant your system pukes. Instead of just pouring it into a can you have to empty. Seen a few just stuck up top.

No problem vented it will become. I will move the hose to the bottom for shure, but I will vent it on the top with a small K&N type filter like the one's used on oil filler caps. :thumbup:

Thanks again.

Yes, you need a Vented bottle. Try holding a 2-liter bottle against your sink faucet. You'll get the idea quick. I'd say about 1/4" hole should do.

IMO, I'd wire that electric fan with a manual switch and/or another wire leading to one of those portable "Jump Starter" packs. So you can keep the fan going when needed. Then just pass off the battery pack to a friend at the start line without the added weight of an extra battery on board. Can even use a few of those batt packs if waiting time is longer.

Just my .02... Hope it helps

Eric_S68 said:

Yes, you need a Vented bottle. Try holding a 2-liter bottle against your sink faucet. You'll get the idea quick. I'd say about 1/4" hole should do.

IMO, I'd wire that electric fan with a manual switch and/or another wire leading to one of those portable "Jump Starter" packs. So you can keep the fan going when needed. Then just pass off the battery pack to a friend at the start line without the added weight of an extra battery on board. Can even use a few of those batt packs if waiting time is longer.

Just my .02... Hope it helps

Click to expand...

That's what I was going to say. On my old '92 Dakota I ran it straight to the Battery so the fan would shut off only when it was cool enough. I would have rather wired it to a keyed power source than run another hot wire to a switch under the dash so I would have a way to keep it on while it was shut off.

Jegs has a nice selection of catch cans, and recirculating catch cans. I just installed the JAZ plastic red one (jegs P/N 547-602-025-06) in my 69 B-Cuda.
Like Goody said,plumb it in at the bottom , and out at the top. I also bought all new clear tubing when I installed it. I put it in front of the radiator support.
Make sure your rad cap is good (test it), a worn out rad cap will puke out before it's set pressure relief set point. I run a 16 lbs cap in mine.
Dave C.

I just bought the blue one of Jaz's from Mancini Racing. Can you post pictures of your install. I'm probably going to mount mine on the inside of the core support where the horns used to be. I moved my horn to where the battery used to be.

Lee

Lee
Send me your email, and I'll send you some pics of my install. I havn't mastered posting on FABO yet.

Dave C.

jason.robbins@leggett.com

Thanks.

Lee

I got to lookin at my bottle and it does have a vent hole at the top.

must be something else thats is my problem