Can you replace rod bearings with engine still in car?

I've done it in my '98 Ram 1500 5.2, and last weekend I did it in my '71 Swinger 318/904.

Once you have the pan off, it isn't that big of a deal. I always change them one at a time so the caps don't end up on the wrong rods. Be sure to remember which direction the caps came off (the caps and rods are usually punch-numbered 1-8 on the same side), make sure the bearing shells are installed correctly with the oil holes in the same orientation as the old bearings you take out, and the reliefs in the bearing shells fitting into the reliefs on the cap and rod.

If you turn the crank by hand after removing each cap, you can pull the rod/piston down and swing the rod end around to the side of the block. This makes it easier to inspect, clean, and snap in the bearing shell. Smear a good coat of quality assembly lube onto the bearing surface and the crank journal, (I use Lucas). Next, push the rod/piston back up and into position, then pull it back to the crank making sure the rod bolts don't nick the journal. Smear the bearing on the cap with assembly lube, then torque the bolts to 45 ft.lbs.

Crank the engine by hand after installing each bearing to be sure nothing is tight. If the crank turns harder than before you installed the bearing, something is wrong. Don't continue until you find the problem!

Remember to prime the motor with a drill before starting it.

Call me crazy, but both times I've done this I warmed the engine up, then revved it to 5500-6000 RPM... just to test my work, I guess. Haven't chucked a rod yet! :thumrigh: