caster question

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MyBlueCuda

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My '65 Barracuda started wandering all over the place at high speeds on the highway and the strip. after I got an alignment. It has manual steering and a 360 engine. I took it back to the tech and he said he couldn'tget the caster to specs. It's sitting at about 4 degrees negative right now. So I have installed adjustable strut rods so that I can get more positive caster. How far positive do you all think I should set the caster to get this car going straight again?
 
...........Somethings wrong or ur alignment guy doesnt know what he's doing............4*+ is great, but u can prolly only get +2 without offset bushings for ur upper control arms.......whats ur camber at.............kim...........what were the specs at b4 the align.........see where i'm going with this..........
 
-4* is all he can get? That's a ton of negative caster. You can usually get them cars up around 2* as long as nothing's bent or out of shape. The rear ride height also has an effect on caster, don't forget. If the car is sitting much higher in the rear, that will cut the caster down in the front a good bit. I've never been real keen on using adjustable strut rods for caster adjustment. That's adding adjustability where none was designed. You're simply counting on the "play" in the lower control arm bushings as a means of movement. That's just never appealed to me as the greatest of ideas. I think if I had to, I would install offset upper control arm bushings first. I'm not a big fan of those either, but it seems a more "correct" way to go, IMO. Keep in mind too, that you don't want a PILE of positive caster with manual steering. It will start to get really difficult to steer at slow speeds, because you will actually be picking up the weight of the car as you turn. Usually, they do really well around 2* or so.
 
On a side note....... You don't want your car aligned to spec anyway. Factory spec is for Bias-Ply tires, not modern radials.
 
So, it was OK until you paid to have it aligned.......
 
I would find another alignment shop. These Mopars have tons of room for adjustment.
 
I agree with not using adj strut rods. They are designed to keep the lower control ARM centered and in place. I was not able to get positive caster in my duster with the amount of rake the car has. I bought a set of tubular upper control arms. They have rod ends that are adjustable, along with different size tapered spacers to move the control ARM for or aft. I have a lot more adjustment than I need now. I love them.

Here is a link to the set I bought.

http://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16164&cat=0&page=1
 
I wouldn't try to crank adjustable strut rods out to adjust the caster either. You want the lower control arm to move freely and if you adjust the strut rods much off center you'll bind up the lower bushing. Like Slim, I used tubular upper control arms on my Cuda to get more caster. Worked great.
 
Agree with others that it's time to take the fish to a different alignment shop. -4° of caster is not good. I run +2° on both cars with all stock suspension components (shocks excluded). This setting raised steering effort and increased turn-in sharpness.

Before more alignment, check condition of upper and lower ball joints and bushings. I once chased what I thought was an alignment issue that turned out to be a dying ball joint.
 
The new kids alignhing have no clue. 2 degrees is ok. More is better.


No kidding. I wish I had a shop that would let me do it. I did it for 30 years until I retired. So anyway I took it back today and found out the reason the tech couldn't align it correctly was 2 of the eccentric bolts were so frozen he was afraid of breaking them. :banghead: Well allrighty then.....I can fix that in about 30 minutes. Just a little PB Blaster will do it. And if I break a bolt, big deal, I'll just put new eccentrics in it. Harder and harder to find a decent mechanic nowadays. Wish I had the room in my garage for a rack!
 
No kidding. I wish I had a shop that would let me do it. I did it for 30 years until I retired. So anyway I took it back today and found out the reason the tech couldn't align it correctly was 2 of the eccentric bolts were so frozen he was afraid of breaking them. :banghead: Well allrighty then.....I can fix that in about 30 minutes. Just a little PB Blaster will do it. And if I break a bolt, big deal, I'll just put new eccentrics in it. Harder and harder to find a decent mechanic nowadays. Wish I had the room in my garage for a rack!

You don't need a rack. You can get manual gauges and turnplates pretty reasonably. I did big trucks on a slab for years just using turnplates.
 
You don't need a rack. You can get manual gauges and turnplates pretty reasonably. I did big trucks on a slab for years just using turnplates.

True. But I got spoiled by using a lift. So much quicker. Still it would be nice to have a lift for other repairs also. :toothy9:
 
Check the LCA bushings. I was having similar problems and found that the LCA and UCA bushings were shot. I replaced them and the strut rod bushings and that solved it.
 
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