1973 225 valve adjustment help!please!
hmmmmmm.....i take it nobody has ever adjusted the valves on their 225... interesting
I am a novice at this, but here's what I do:
Remove the valve cover.
Attach a push-button switch to the starter relay so you can "bump" the engine with the starter. You can turn it by hand, with a wrench on the crank bolt (assuming it has one; some apparently don't), but it's tiresome.... even with the spark plugs removed. The pusbutton starter switch is easier.
Pull the wire out of the coil and ground it, so the engine won't try to fire.
With the valve cover removed, you can see the rocker arms and the valve springs. The cylinders are numbered 1 through 6, front-to-rear.
Starting with the forward-most (very first) valve spring/rocker arm, use the pushbutton to turn the engine to the position where the valve NEXT to the first one, (the second one back) is open a good bit(at least, halfway)... you can tell, by the action of the valve-end of the rocker arm.
With that (second) valve somewhat open, you can be assurred that the one you are working on (adjusting) is in the correct position (the lifter on the heel of the cam, not the lobe) to be adjusted.
Take a feeler gauge and select the .018" thickness and slip the blade in the space between the valve stem and the rocker arm "pad" where it touches the valve.
If it goes into that space without any resistance at all, the clearance is set too loose. On the other end of the rocker arm, there is a threaded screw that contacts the pushrod on the bottom side. Turn it clockwise, until you feel a slight resistance to pulling out the feeler gauge blade.
If you get it too tight, just back the screw off a little, 'til you're satisfied. Take your time.
When it feels "right," with a slight resistance to pulling out the gauge, you are done with that valve.
Now, go to the next valve toward the firewall, and repeat the procedure, being careful to make sure the other valve FOR THAT CYLINDER is open, preferably, all the way, but at least halfway open. That's the one you just adjusted.
Remember; the valves are all in a row, and in pairs (Intake/Exhaust) so just because a valve is NEXT TO the one you are adjusting, that doesn't necessarily mean that you can use it as a reference point in its travel, to position the crank so you can adjust the valve next to it. The first two valves are for cylinder #1; the next two, for cylinder #2, and so on... you get the idea. As I said, they're in pairs. One group of two han NOTHING to do with the next two, for the activity we are talking about.
I use .018" for a "cold" setting. Ideally, these valves should be set on an engine that is up to operating temperature, and running, but this will probably get rid of your "ticking."
I hope I didn't insult your intelligence; I don't know how much you know...
Good luck with this.
Any more questions, just ask away...
