MP 292H cam too big?

Cam with cam in motor (was supposed to be crane 292 cam but does not meet the specs. Only cam specs it matches (measured) is MP 292H (and it is painted purple on the ends.
What spec? just the lobe lift? Purple Shafts (MP cams) should have the entire non-machined surface of the cam blank coated purple. (unless they changed that). Is it solid or hydraulic?

Problem 2) My compression works out to be too high for pump gas. This is a street/strip car with full interior, etc. Static CR almost 10, Dynamic CR around 9.2.
What intake valve closing event are you using for the dynamic calculation? I think you're off if that is indeed an MP hydraulic .509.

Problem 3) have 2400 B&M stall (brand new), don't want to spend another 500+ on a new converter. Cam calls for 3500 stall (so I've read). anyone running smaller stall with a cam this big on the streets, how does it run?
What you have will work. If you had higher, it would work better. If you have more gear, it will work better. If not, it won't.

Problem 4) Quinch. (bench racing, have not assembled yet). If piston to deck height is .048-.050 (based on other posts by members using these pistons), dome is .050, then height =about 0 deck. Combustion chamber depth measures .105, plus .040 head gasket = what quench? If I mill heads as suggested for optimum quinch (.035-.045 according to kb pistons) then I will really have too much compression.
If you are working on a set of open chamber iron heads, I would completely ignore teh quench issue. I've built with open chamber heads and quench domes. To get any benefit, you have to get thigns tight. If you have to get things tight, it's a lot of work with open chamber heads. Here's what you need to do:
Establish your block's deck height. If you cant measure it, mock up the crank and 4 rods and piston 1 in each corner. Measure the distances, and use the tallest.
Establish which chamber is deepest of all 8, and then make the others all match it. Smooth out the casting features while doing this.
Mill the heads to establish the correct chamber depth in relation to the tallest piston. Clay the top surface of the piston edge nearest the valley of the block. That will be your quench distance, and if it's wider than .040" when measured in the right spot you aren't getting much benefit. So be precise with your measurements and machine work. What I did was have the main bores align honed and the block square decked to blue print height. The crank was indexed, stroke corrected, and turned and polished. Rods (factory) were all resized and lengths matched. Then I had the valve job done and I did the porting. Then I mocked up a piston and rod, and clayed all eight holes. Mine had depth variations of .015". I matched the chamber depth and made it flat using a depth mic and hand grinding/polishing. Then I had the heads cut to eastablish .035" quench distance. It's a lot of work if it's not being done by you, and that's assuming you did have the rods, crank, and block blueprinted, which most don't do. So really, I'd say ignore the quench deal. Make the static around 9.8:1, kep the dynamic (properly calculated) to below 8.25, and you're good to go.

Advice, inlightenment, your experienced/suggestions please. Considering going kb 107 flat tops, rebalancing, milling to greater compression, going with oob edelbrock heads. Which means I will be rodding the 318 again next season because that's a lot of cabbage ($). Would like to drive to the track and run a 13. Is that unrealistic?
A 318 could run that with the right parts and setup. A 360 needs less to do it.