1.6 Rocker Arms for /6

does any of the members have a set of altered rockers I'd really like to see just how there changing the ratio a couple pics would be helpful

if I could see just what needs to be done I have the resources to possibly attempt this but I need some more clarification and a better understanding
Aaron

Aaron; here's what I learned today, talking (but, mostly, listening) to my close friend, Bobby Roper, who is a (retired) very knowlegable machinist.

He told me some interesting things I hadn't known to consider, To wit:
He said to try and file a groove of any size in the rocker arm. If it was too tough to file, then, it's "heat treated."

I tried to file it... It's definitely heat treated.

He said IF it is (heat treated,) before you can machine it successfully, the heat treatment must be nullified by annealing the rockers. That will make them worthy candidates for the kind of surgery I am thinking might work.

The most expiditious initial machining operation would be to affix the rockers to a "jig" that would hold them in place while a hi-speed, rotary cutter wheel of the RIGHT THICKNESS, slices a thin, straight, line completely through the body of the rocker in the location of the spaghetti in my photo of a while back (yesterday.) See below...

He said it is important to remove as exactly as possible, JUST the amount (.080") of material (thickness,) so that the two "halves" can be pushed together, with no space to fill, by the weld.

He thinks a T.I.G. welder will be optimum for this.

Once a bead has been run down both sides, and the rocker is in one piece, again, it should be a genuine 1.6:1 ratio unit. Or, close to that...

Then, it can be taken BACK to the folks who annealed it, and heat treat it (them, actually... all12,) all over again.

I asked him if I could cut the rockers with a diamond-surfaced cut-off wheel, without annealing them, and he said, sure... but you'll have a lot of trouble getting a satisfactory weld, then, even with a T.I.G. welder. Heat-treated material just won't weld successfully. He thinks it would be "brittle."

So, I asked him if the "cut" could be too large, (thick,) leaving a gap to be filled in with weld, and he said, "No, the pieces need to butt each other accurately, with NO gap, because the welding rod might not match the metalurgy of the parent pieces, exactly, and it would result in a poor weld (weak.)

Damn...

This operation just gets curiouser and curiouser....

I'm going to go, tomorrow, and investigate the $$$$ in all this heat treat removal process, and also the re-heat treatment.

I'm also going to try to find out the Rockwell hardness of these things, and what kind of material they are made of. He thinks they are probably 4160.

Only after we know all of that, will a decision as to whether it's worth all this song and dance for a little more cam...

Please.... any ideas would be more than welcome!!!

Thanks in advance...