727 Rebuild Advice

All 3 kits are basically the same and good looking kits except the 2nd has better clutch plates and steels but none have all the bushings or any thrust washers. When I rebuild a trans. I replace all bushings and thrust washers and you also need some selective thrust washers to set the end play. If you haven't already tore it apart measure the end play and write it down then take the pump out and measure the thickness of the selective thrust washer. It's the first fiber washer that's right behind the pump. Basically it's between the pump and front clutch pack. If you have .050" end play and the selective thrust washer is .068 you can jump up to a .097 selective washer to get the end play down to about .020" which is where I like them so things are no slapping back and forth so much. You also need to inspect the pump gears and check the clearance on them. About half the trans. I do get either a new set of gears or complete new pump assy. One last thing that isn't absolutely necessary but it's a good thing to do is shim the gear train. Most of the time it's pretty loose, on the order of .025~.040". I like to get the total gear train end play down to .008~.010" but shims are only made in .010" thickness so sometimes you have to just get it as close as you can, just don't go too tight.

I agree with Kim on the shift improver kit(s). Trans-go TF-2 for a street/strip trans. that shifts automatically or a TF-3 kit if you want to make it full manual shift. Also look at your front band apply lever ratio. If it's a 3.2, 3.8 or 4.2 that's great. Less than that you may want to put a higher ratio lever in it but whatever you do don't put a 5.0 lever in it. Every one I ever put a 5.0 lever in I had to take back out because it caused shift overlap going into 3rd gear. If you decide to change the lever put a 3.8 or 4.2 in it. The higher ratio the lever the firmer the 2nd gear shift. My personal preference with a stock/modified valve body is to use a 3.8 lever and block the accumulator. It'll shift real solid into 2nd and not overlap going into 3rd.

BTW: if you don't already have it there's a great book out by Carl Munroe on torqueflites. The only thing I don't agree with him on is he likes everything super tight. I've had better results with slightly more clearances than he recommends. JMHO

Here's a link to the book on Amazon.com

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite--727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320860112&sr=8-1"]Amazon.com: Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook HP1399: How to Rebuild or Modify Chrysler's A-727 Torqueflite for All Applications (9781557883995): Carl Munroe: Books[/ame]