Very easy to static time an engine
1 IF the valve cover(s) are off, bring/ bump/ wrench the engine until the timing marks are NOT at TDC but rather where you think you want the timing. On a stock cam, maybe 8-10*BTC, with a little more cam, maybe 12-16*BTC,
Now look at either the no1 or no6 valves. If the no1 valves are both CLOSED, no1 is ready to fire, and drop the dist. in so the rotor points nearest to no1 plug tower. If both no6 are closed, drop the dist in so the rotor points to no6.
IF the valve covers on both on, do this: Remove no1 plug, stick your finger in, and bump the engine until you JUST start to feel compression. You might have to go 'round a couple of times to get the hang of it. AS SOON as you feel compression, pay attention to the timing marks which should be coming "up." Once again, carefully set the marks so that they represent the timing you think you want, as above
NEXT with the dist in (or out, actually) I ALWAYS scribe the top rim of the dist. to correspond with the no1 plug tower. Even a marker works. Now you can see where the rotor is in relation to no1.
So with the dist in, and you are able to position the dist housing so that no1 and the rotor are aligned, now RETARD the dist (cw on a sb) so that your points are closed. Turn on the ignition, and put a lamp across the neg. side of the coil. Slowly rotate the dist ADVANCED (ccw on a sb) until the lamp just lights
THIS IS the static timing point, and if you did this right, the engine should fire as if it was parked overnight.