Hi, was wondering what master cylinder you had? I'm in the middle of upgrading to 4 wheels disc and was wondering if you have had luck with this mc thanks......sorry for the hack :(
It's a long story...but when I first got the car, it had been converted to the 73-76 discs but it still had the manual drum brake MC. I replaced it right away with a 73-76 A body power disc brake MC that I ran manually, no power brakes. (15/16" bore) The feel was excellent, I really liked it. Then about 3 summers ago I converted the rear to BBP to finally match the front. I sent C-body axles to Moser and they shortened and re-splined them. I sourced most of the other brake parts from swap meets. This is when I redid the plumbing. I went to a local Auto Zone and the counter guys brought out about 6 different aluminum MC's from 80's Mopars. I opened the boxes and looked for the recess in the piston that retains the funky o-ring that holds the pushrod. Anyway, the only one that had the recess was 1-1/8" bore so I bought it. I usually try to reduce the car weight whenever I can so that's why I went aluminum with an adapter from AR Eng. But the feel with the 1-1/8" bore was extremely hard. Sometimes at a red light I would use both feet on the pedal just to keep it from creeping.
Then I was at a winter swap meet and bought the one that is on the car now. I bought it from a racer and it had been on a shelf the last 20 years or so with fluid in it so the piston bore was kinda gummed up. I disassembled it and was able to clean it with chemicals and very fine Scotchbrite and the bore is perfect. Some of the aluminum Mopar MC's hava an angled reservoir, but I used a level one. I also converted to DOT5 synthetic because it's a summer car only and it doesn't eat paint if you spill or have a leak.
I'm pretty sure it is an old Direct Connection part as it was blue anodized on the outside. This one is 1-1/32" bore. The feel is fine, but it's a little stiffer than the 15/16" bore iron one I started with. If you are going to 4 wheel discs, and are using a disc/drum MC, you'll need to remove the rear residual pressure valve that is just inside of the tapped hole for the rear brake fitting.
