Brazilian Mopar
To be honest, I think that here we have only one kind of torsion bars. On the 70´s our industries were very simple. But the factors manual says the our torsion bars have 809,32 mm (31,86") X 22,6 mm (0,889").
Let´s keep talking!
Thanks for the support.
Andre,
In America, the .89" diameter torsion bar was used on the big block (383) A-bodies. So you already have the biggest T-bar ever used in the A-bodies from the factory. Later, Mopar Performance and the after-market produced bigger bars.
Regarding suspension tools. Don't feel like you have to buy a tool kit to work on your suspension. Lots of people have done without.
You really do NOT need a tool to remove the lower ball joint tapered shaft from the LCA. Just remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut several turns on the LBJ shaft. Then whack the LCA arm with a big hammer on the forging where the tapered shaft passes through. Note that you do NOT hit the threaded shaft, just the end of the lower control arm on the side. Usually, a couple good whacks will dislodge the shaft from the tapered hole. It will just "pop" loose. That is the traditional way of doing it.
I have attached a couple pictures of more tools I have made. One is a torsion bar remover. I cheated and milled the slot using a vertical mill at work. After removing the upper rubber bump stops, backing the T-bar adjuster all the way out, and removing the retaining ring on the end of the T-bar, the "tool" clamps around the T-bar using the 4 bolts. (one is missing in the picture) Then the tool is whacked with a big hammer towards the rear of the car to drive the bar out of the LCA.
The other tool was made from a piece of 1" (25,4mm) square steel tubing with a 1/2" (12,7mm) nut welded into one end. Then a screw is threaded into the nut. I welded and then ground a small round protrusion on the top of the bolt head to engage the recess at the bottom of the UBJ stud. The cotter pin is removed from the Upper Ball Joint stud and the nut removed. The tool is then placed over the LBJ stud and the tool's screw is turned so it produces an upwards force on the end of the UBJ stud. This is not enough to dis-lodge the shaft from the tapered hole but it produces a parting load against it. Then once again, the upper part of the steering knuckle is whacked with a big hammer. It may take a couple hits but it will soon "pop" apart. The key is to impart a separation force then whack it.
I find it is easiest to unscrew the UBJ from the UCA while it is still in the car after all the rest of the suspension is removed. I use the special UCA ball joint socket with a breaker bar with a 1 meter long pipe over that to add leverage.
Most of these tools can be seen in the Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one, someone in FABO can probably tell you where to download a copy. (no $$ :cheers:)
dennis
If you run into problems, just yell.
