another turbo slant build thread

I was planning on starting out at 10PSI and work up to 30MAX would a stock rotating assembly handle that? (stock CR and all) I really don't wanna get a new crank or rods as I plan to have the cylinders honed and the typical machine work done(cam bearings, frost plugs, magging, check line bore(s), hardened seats, 3-5 angle valve job, polish/turn crank, and myself doing some bowl blending before hand)

I have no experience with turbocharged slant sixes, but from all I read here on FABO, I don't think it's very safe to run much more than 10 pounds of boost, consistently, with cast pistons and stock rods.

A 10-second, 3,000 pound A-Body is going to need at least, 25 pounds of boost, and the stock early-model forged crank is probably good for tht amount of boost, but pistons and rods will undoubtedly have to be aftermarket (forged.) Wiseco and K-1 are two companies that work together to offer up a set of forged pistons and nominal 7" (198 rods for a 225 motor that work pretty well, I think. Forget using OEM (cast) internals for serious horsepower. With significant boost. It won't work...

Looking at Holset HX40 turbo's- found a couple cheap on the bay...
I'll be making the turbo manifold what would be the best material? mild steel or?
what's a good Turbo safe cam mechanical or hyd.. REALLY don't matter to me I just like the simple- ness of hydraulic tappets-
basically a 10 second "grocery gitter-doner" (would like to long haul to the Mopar nat's and the Hotrod power tour with it)

The nice things about turbocharged slant 6s are in a variety of areas... Here are a few...


1. They LIKE rear axle ratios in the high 2's, like a 2.76:1, so this allows you to install a cheap, plentiful, 8.25" rer end, and not have to pay through the nose for an A-body 8.75" unit. The hiway gear is also the drag racing gear... Go figure, but it works.


2. These approximately 500HP slant six motors don't have to wind up like an 8-day clock to make that kind of power. Ryan and Tom both shift well below 6,000 rpm, and go F-A-S-T... so, valve springs can be reasonable (tension-wise) and your cam will last a long time, hopefully.


3. Turbo engines do not work well with a lot of duration, because the overlap cycle alllows good, pressurized mixture to be blown right out the exhaust valve, so a short duration cam that idles well and has good street manners, makes these Jeckyll/Hyde motors a joy to drive, around town. 210 degrees at .050"-inch lift seems to work well.


4. They are quiet enough not to even NEED a muffler, in many cases...


6. Expensive, high-stall torque converters are not only not necessary, they don't even work well with these motors, because of the slant's incredible mid-range torque.


7. "Used" 4-bbl Offy and Clifford intake manifolds are available for around $200.00, and Holley double pumper carbs can also be found on E-Bay quite reasonable, at times. No need to pay top dollar for a new one. The 600-cfm size seems to work well for both Ryan and Tom, and those are popular sizes. They will have to be modified for blow-thru service.

Lots of good reasons to build a slant 6 turbo motor...:blob:

Having a car that's quick, but doesn't have a V-8, is a novelty, and people pay attention to it.


Good luck, and keep the questions coming!!!