66 dart LED prototype working for now
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Very nice I plan to do the same thing to my Valiant. Do you have a parts list?
not a parts list exactly. but you will need to plan it out one of two ways.
common parts for both
12 volt regulating for both types. (sharps regulators).
led's for pattern you'd like for both types. (GET LOT's of extra if you haven't done this before, I didn't order enough +40, to fix all my "magic smoke" booboo's)
PCB boards (I used a pre drilled 4x6 prototype board).
schottky diode (it's like a one way valve) power won't go the other way to overpower the dim tail light.
(1 for each row(brake/blinker and tail) 2 per light)
usual soldering stuff.
cutting instruments to shape PCB with to fit inside lenses.
Copper or Aluminium heat sink material (heat stabilizer for PCB)I use 1/8 inch soft tubing soldered to the ground link from led to led row.
(1) power regulated PWM style needs extra
PWM Module between 10.00 and 50.00 depending on style you get.
thais style does not use resistors and uses PWM mode for tail lights brightness adjustment(dim function).
still 2 rows for power (Turn/Brake and Tail)
this works like this
sharps regulator on both tail and bralke wires
1 tail light wire to PWM module to schottky diode to led's to grounding wire.
2 brake/turn to schottky diode to led's to ground
adjust dimmable PWM to desired brightness (cheap ones do NOT work good) I ordered new ones from "HIDPLANET LED forums and paid 35.00 per module plus 5.00 extra for the regulators (I got 2 module and 4 regulators)
pro's
less parts
more usable space in taillight housing
"looks like a caddy light"
con's
more expensive
more wiring
switching on the ground circuit. not a positive switching.
so don't ever let the ground go weak or it'll blow the PWM
(2) Resistor regulated function
2 resistors for each row of led's (tail function Dim)(brake/blinker function)
on mine i have 6 rows of 6 led's with 6 set's of resistors controlling the bright/dim function.
ie
tail light power to schottky diode resistor-to led-led-led-led-led-led to ground
brake/blinker to schottky diode to resistor-back up to the led's to ground
then you just add rows.
there's a led serial/parallel resistor wizard at Linear1.org to calculate you resistor value
pro's
less wiring
cheaper
constant resistance
easier to prototype
con's
less room in the tail light housing
resistors add heat to the housing(that's why i use the 1/8 copper tubing flattened as a grounding lead strip.)
more soldering connections(double check you circuits)
harder to change the bright dim ratio
I use the resistor method on the prototypes, my dc motor control(PWM) didn't work out to dim the light as much as I needed them to.
mine happen to be cheap china 4 chip leds for a prototype
2.0 forward voltage and 70MA . control voltage is 12 volts
soooo 6x2.0 =12 volts
I cheated and did a 25MA and a 45MA to get the 2 different levels of light
(your results may/will vary)
my amber front ones are cheaper single chip amber leds at
2.8 forward voltage 20MA and 12 control voltage
so 4x2.8 = 11.2 voltage and I have to resistor it down for both levels
my calc's were for this one was 7MA and 19MA. (I overdrove this from 13MA to 19MA to get a corrected resistor) hopefully it won't blow the led's.
(I've run the blinker for 9 hours with a trickle charger on the battery and it hasn't blown yet)
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the resistor setup for both bright and dim. basically is on the bottom for the back lights and I have the fronts done in cad to make a cleaner setup
I'll redo the backs as soon as I'm sure I don't loose brightness due to heat.
I'll see if I can get some better pic's of the back side
I did run my wires to the regular light socket. I took a blown 1157 bulb and took the glass out by de-soldering the 2 leads and pulling out the glass bulb. that way I use stock harness connection without cutting any wires
hope that helped
