*Need help on how to wire up a switch panel*
You have a couple of things wrong, if I understand your wiring
The brown and yellow, and blue, these are all the factory colors?
Brown and yellow MUST NOT be interconnected. Brown goes to the coil+ side of the ballast, or to coil + if the ballast is bypassed
This brown (originally) is hot ONLY in start, and supplies "hot battery" for the ignition during crank. It is also known as "IGN 2"
Yellow goes to your starter relay, and the key supplies power to it also only in "start."
When you hook them together, and the engine is running, you create a feedback situation where the voltage at the coil will attempt to feed back to the start relay. If this is a stick car with a neutral safety switch, this will happen with the clutch pedal down. On an auto car, this will happen in park or neutral, and on older stick cars, all the time the car is running. This will either hold the starter engaged, or will deteriorate the spark voltage
The reason it won't run is you don't have power on the blue igniton wire, which (originally) feeds the instruments, the ignition, and alternator field and the regulator.
If you only have a one pole switch for start, there are a couple of ways around the brown/ blue problem.
One way is to buy a great big diode, probably 10A 25V or more, and install it in series with the lead to the start relay The diode is marked either with an arrow or a band on one end. -->]-- means the same thing as -----]-- Current flows neg/ pos left to right in these diagrams, so you want the band end to the start relay, and the opposite end towards your start switch
A second way is to buy a later model start relay used on Jeeps which has an extra set of contacts. Hook it up just like you would the old one, and run the terminal marked "BAL" over to coil positive, leaving the original brown wire unhooked
Still a third way would be to buy a separate Bosch relay, and use the start button to energize the Bosch relay AND your starter relay, and use the contacts in the Bosch relay to replace the brown bypass circuit
So far as the blue, I don't know what switch is what, but you need that hooked up for "run."
To TAKE THIS ONE MORE STEP, however, I would NOT depend on the factory bulkhead wiring. I would seriously consider looking over the "Mad Electrical" stuff:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
especially this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
if you have not done so.
Consider replacing your brown/ blue/ yellow wiring by cutting out the connectors, using larger gauge wire, and simply running the wire right through the bulkhead connector.
You have a couple of things wrong, if I understand your wiring
The brown and yellow, and blue, these are all the factory colors?
Brown and yellow MUST NOT be interconnected. Brown goes to the coil+ side of the ballast, or to coil + if the ballast is bypassed
This brown (originally) is hot ONLY in start, and supplies "hot battery" for the ignition during crank. It is also known as "IGN 2"
Yellow goes to your starter relay, and the key supplies power to it also only in "start."
When you hook them together, and the engine is running, you create a feedback situation where the voltage at the coil will attempt to feed back to the start relay. If this is a stick car with a neutral safety switch, this will happen with the clutch pedal down. On an auto car, this will happen in park or neutral, and on older stick cars, all the time the car is running. This will either hold the starter engaged, or will deteriorate the spark voltage
The reason it won't run is you don't have power on the blue igniton wire, which (originally) feeds the instruments, the ignition, and alternator field and the regulator.
If you only have a one pole switch for start, there are a couple of ways around the brown/ blue problem.
One way is to buy a great big diode, probably 10A 25V or more, and install it in series with the lead to the start relay The diode is marked either with an arrow or a band on one end. -->]-- means the same thing as -----]-- Current flows neg/ pos left to right in these diagrams, so you want the band end to the start relay, and the opposite end towards your start switch
A second way is to buy a later model start relay used on Jeeps which has an extra set of contacts. Hook it up just like you would the old one, and run the terminal marked "BAL" over to coil positive, leaving the original brown wire unhooked
Still a third way would be to buy a separate Bosch relay, and use the start button to energize the Bosch relay AND your starter relay, and use the contacts in the Bosch relay to replace the brown bypass circuit
So far as the blue, I don't know what switch is what, but you need that hooked up for "run."
To TAKE THIS ONE MORE STEP, however, I would NOT depend on the factory bulkhead wiring. I would seriously consider looking over the "Mad Electrical" stuff:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml
especially this:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
if you have not done so.
Consider replacing your brown/ blue/ yellow wiring by cutting out the connectors, using larger gauge wire, and simply running the wire right through the bulkhead connector.
