Can motor be UNSTUCK????

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HowardBishop

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Say MOPAR men...can you help me here in the high desert of California??? I bought a 1970 Dodge pickup Truck...Adventurer. Very nice and straight...it came from a wrecking yard but was impounded 12 years ago and has sat.

It is a 318 auto.P/S truck...2 bbl carb. It had the hood latched..it had oil in it...the radiator was drained and it sat. I put antifreeze in it ...put a new battery...removed the plugs and squirted oil in the cylinders. I put some Marvel mystery Oil in the top valve cover fill. Nothing on the start...nothing...just a barely audible click. I put a breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt to give it a manual turn......NOTHING...won't budge!!! I put more oil in the sparkplug holes and let it sit for a day....WON'T budge with a breaker.....even with a helper extension bar.

So....am I "toast"?? Is there something more I can do? Am I missing something? Like I said....Help!!
 

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If is stuck that tight pull the heads off and inspect.I bought a car years ago that some pulled the spark plugs out and let it sit in a barn for 25 years.It was stuck so I pulled the head,cleaned up the cyclinders and got the car running.I drove the car for a few years and the sold the car to a buddy and he drove the car for a few years.Never had a issue with the engine and it ran great.

Jim
 
fill all cylinders with deep creeep or pb blaster let set 4-5 days try
 
I like good old fashion diesel... Frees everything that is stuck and it doesn't leave any crap behind that will ruin a good oil.
 
Just make sure after filling cylinders with fluid that you leave the plugs out when trying to crank it over and get it loose.

X2 with the diesel
 
As stated earlier, pull the heads and inspect the cylinders. I would also look at the oil and prime the oil pump to try and get some oil to the bearing in the bottom of the motor.
 
Leave the plugs out and fill with brake fluid. I have had good luck with this.
 
Try Kano Kroil....... it creeps into the smallest area's, but is somewhat expensive. Good Luck with freeing the motor!
 
kleen flo diesel fuel conditioner is about the best we found to unstick a engine but if the rings are stuck in the pistons it will smoke and need a rering
 
Many thanks...I have at least 3-4 good ideas. I'm amazed at the quick response from MOPAR "brothers". Thanks...I'll re-post if I get it freed up! Yes....the truck is awesome....even dual exhausts with glass packs and air bags on the rear!!!!!! Hard to believe this was in the back of a wrecking yard. Note the pristine back....it had a camper shell on it which got tossed. It cleaned up pretty well and the paint shines....even without buffing it. NO Rust!!! I hope to put it up for sale after getting it running as I'm working on a 1969 RR. This one just needed a rescue.
Howard
 
I have seen in the past a crude but effective method. Pull the plugs and put diesel fuel or Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Put a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt, place a piece of pipe on the breaker bar and hang a weight on the end of the pipe, we used to use a concrete block. Let gravity work on it. It will take some time as the pipe slowly moves down reposition it and let the weight work on it some more. It will take time but will do less damage to the cylinders in the long run. It sounds kooky but I have seen it work more than once.

Once the motor turns freely change the oil, put some plugs in it and fresh gas and give it a try.
 
dustermaniac said:
I like good old fashion diesel... Frees everything that is stuck and it doesn't leave any crap behind that will ruin a good oil.
Click to expand...


X2 on the diesel and let it set a few days but you said you just have a click. You should be hearing more than a click if you have a hot battery. You should be hearing more like a clunk. Are you positive you don't have a starter that is locked the starter drive on to the flywheel?
 
hook up some booster cables and put the transmission in NEUTRAL then see if it turns over. Oklacarcollector is right there should be more than just a click sound.
 
I just un stuck a 440 that was soaked with PB blaster, Marvel, ATF you name it. I wound up pulling the heads, found the cylinder that was rusty, then i used a 2 x 4 and a sledge to bust it louse. It worked and after the piston was at the bottom of the stroke I honed the cylinder and all was fine.
 
ATF and Kerosene, or ATF and Acetone. 1/4 cup in each cylinder (enough to cover entire piston) and breaker bar on crank, let sit a few days, try and move crank, refill and repeat as necessary. If you get crank to budge, let sit another day and budge some more, just dont go crazy on the first hint of movement. Some of those manual trans guys may tell you to push and bump her with the clutch, but that may really scar up the bores if there is alot of rust in there. Once you get it to bump with the starter, drain all that crud, cheap oil fill, water in the radiator, 2 gallons of gas and light her off. High idle for 10 minutes, almost like a motor break in. keep eye on oil pressure and temp. You want to get it warm/hot. Add a quart of motor flush and follow directions, like a low idle for 5 minutes or whatever the can says. Drain completely, like overnight. Pull pan if you can and scrape goop out, if not- fresh oil, and driver her. Doubt there is cake in the pan if it had oil in it at all. Cool truck.
 
Dodge33 said:
Try Kano Kroil....... it creeps into the smallest area's, but is somewhat expensive. Good Luck with freeing the motor!
Click to expand...

I wholeheartedly agree with you on the Kroil!
I've been using it since the 60's when I worked in Aero/space in SoCal.
I have a gallon of it right now in my garage.

CudaMike13
 
pishta said:
ATF and Kerosene, or ATF and Acetone. 1/4 cup in each cylinder (enough to cover entire piston) and breaker bar on crank, let sit a few days, try and move crank, refill and repeat as necessary. If you get crank to budge, let sit another day and budge some more, just dont go crazy on the first hint of movement. Some of those manual trans guys may tell you to push and bump her with the clutch, but that may really scar up the bores if there is alot of rust in there. Once you get it to bump with the starter, drain all that crud, cheap oil fill, water in the radiator, 2 gallons of gas and light her off. High idle for 10 minutes, almost like a motor break in. keep eye on oil pressure and temp. You want to get it warm/hot. Add a quart of motor flush and follow directions, like a low idle for 5 minutes or whatever the can says. Drain completely, like overnight. Pull pan if you can and scrape goop out, if not- fresh oil, and driver her. Doubt there is cake in the pan if it had oil in it at all. Cool truck.
Click to expand...

Ugh.... Where is the clutch pedal on this truck?

attachment.php
 
This mixture here has never failed me :

Take a Quart Jug (oil or trans fluid)

3/4 Diesel Fuel or Kerosene
Not quite a 1/4 Transmission Fluid
top it off with Brake Fluid.


Shake well and fill each cylinder, let it sit for a few days. It will remove rust like you wouldn't believe and will free up even the worst of the "lost cause" engines
 
also check for locked up alternator or water pump,i once bought a car with a locked up engine,started to take apart,removed belts and engine turned.found locked up alternator.80 dollers later i was driveing it.
 
Motopsycho said:
fill all cylinders with deep creeep or pb blaster let set 4-5 days try
Click to expand...

this ^^ seafoam deep creep is the name of the product you are looking for it comes in a spray can like Wd-40 would, turn the can upside down and use the spray straw to spray into plug holes (product foams when upside down and seems to work better) I have used this stuff on everything from stuck to hub brake drums to seized A/C pumps with nothing but luck
 
Update....I filled the cylinders with Deep Creep...and diesel fuel. I attached a weight on the breaker bar and am letting gravity help me. Sprayed Deep Creep into the top End. Loosened the starter and sprayed some WD 40 on the shaft.....re-tightened it. So far....still the same....but I'm optimistic as I've done the things the Guys here suggested.
Could the Water pump be frozen???...what are the chances?? My radiator was dry when I checked the fluids....maybe that's the stuck thing?????
Thanks for the many helpful ideas ....stories and links.
God Bless MOPAR Guys!!
Howard
 
HowardBishop said:
Update....I filled the cylinders with Deep Creep...and diesel fuel. I attached a weight on the breaker bar and am letting gravity help me. Sprayed Deep Creep into the top End. Loosened the starter and sprayed some WD 40 on the shaft.....re-tightened it. So far....still the same....but I'm optimistic as I've done the things the Guys here suggested.
Could the Water pump be frozen???...what are the chances?? My radiator was dry when I checked the fluids....maybe that's the stuck thing?????
Thanks for the many helpful ideas ....stories and links.
God Bless MOPAR Guys!!
Howard
Click to expand...

remove all the accessorie belts attaching to the crankshaft, at this point they could be doing worse then good, it could be the best part of a month before it will turn even a little, then you want to turn it the opposite direction for a little bit and keep alternating directions until it will turn a complete revolution
 
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