Alternator wiring
Thanks for your input guys,have learned a lot these past weeks.Cleaned all connections,still getting 15.2 at fast idle.Have ordered new VR incase my one is playing up.
Have done the Mad electrical conversion ,i have a new 60A alt new 6awg cable goes direct to starter relay pos post through fused connection.From starter relay post a 1awg cable goes through car to rear trunk mounted battery.Grounds at batt and 2 from engine to chassis.alt wires as follows Green field wire to fld side of reg.no 2 field connection grounded to alt case.
As i have clear path to battery how does the VR regulate voltage to batt.
Probably a dumb question but its niggling me.
And a Happy New Year to you all!!
Don't replace the regulator until you actually MEASURE the ground and hot side drop, it's easy:
With engine NOT running, and key in "run" stick one probe on the battery pos, the other on the regulator IGN terminal. You should not see much, not more than .2V (two tenths). The more you have the more it indicates a harness drop problem, and the more you have the more it will OVERcharge.
Now check the ground. With the engine running at an RPM to simulate "low to medium cruise" and the battery "normalized" stick one probe on the battery negative post, and the other directly onto the mounting pad of the regulator. Be sure to stab through any paint, etc.
Here again, you want a low reading, the lower the better. The combination (if any) of the two voltage drops---the ground side PLUS the drop in the harness ADD to the charging voltage set by the regulator
IF these two checks are OK, you either have a bad regulator, or in rare cases, a problem in the battery itself can cause this.
On my 67, before I rewired it, I had ONE VOLT drop through the bulkhead.