header help??

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Viceroy125

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What would be the best set for headers to us on a 73 plymouth duster 318? And what I mean by best is a set that can snake through the engine comparment and not be in the way of anything.
 
thats going to get expensive....for what you have buy you a set of the summit/jegs/flow tech headers ..they work pretty good for a mild set up..you have to take the driver drag link and tie rod a lose but not alot of trouble....jmho at about 150.00 and under..mike
 
I have a set of Hooker Competition headers in my 73 Dart Sport. I can't change the back two plugs on the driver's side, and I affectionately call them my aftermarket skid plates. They sit very low. I am changing to a 408 and am going with TTi headers to sit above the center link. They have a much higher height clearance. Most standard headers you use in that car and set up will sit very low. Unless you have good high rear leafs and the torsion bar cranked up for good height, go with TTi. Or wait a few weeks and buy my pre-scraped Hookers cheap! I also have a set of Hooker Super Competition I am willing to sell as well. Scraped and dented a bit, too.
 
The only two real options are Doug's headers (500 or less HP) or TTi headers (501 or greater, that or if you plan to upgrade the HP in your motor).
My 340 with 400-425 HP has Doug's headers, which is fine because there won't be any upgrades for mine.
 
To Mopar to ya: Idk if I want to purchase anything just yet. I just wanted to know what your guys answers were.

and to 1970duster: Thanks! Im gnna be adding some horse to it later on but not close to 500 at all!!!
 
To Mopar to ya: Idk if I want to purchase anything just yet. I just wanted to know what your guys answers were.

and to 1970duster: Thanks! Im gnna be adding some horse to it later on but not close to 500 at all!!!

I wouldn't really recommend these headers anyway. They work just fine, but the scrape all the freakin' time. As I said, I am going with TTi to gain clearance. Plus, I can't get at the back two plugs. That really sucks.
 
i went 7.40 with the flow tech headers in a 70 duster all steel ..so you would be ok with those listed above unless you just have to have a big tube or name header....but thats just me ..:burnout:

also you gotta think about the header size..the bigger the pipe you lose low end tq....i had some hooker headers 1 7/8 and didnt pick up a thing using them on my motor..but it wasnt anything to write home about either...just ran ok...
 
i went 7.40 with the flow tech headers in a 70 duster all steel ..so you would be ok with those listed above unless you just have to have a big tube or name header....but thats just me ..:burnout:

also you gotta think about the header size..the bigger the pipe you lose low end tq....i had some hooker headers 1 7/8 and didnt pick up a thing using them on my motor..but it wasnt anything to write home about either...just ran ok...

Yea but Doug's headers are 1 5/8 and TTi makes both the 1 7/8 as well as the step headers 1 5/8 to 1 3/4.
 
flow tech are 1 5/8 and cheap lol..:D

also whats the price of the dougs and tti ....lets say about 500.00/600.00

flow tech 150.00 or less
 
flow tech are 1 5/8 and cheap lol..:D

also whats the price of the dougs and tti ....lets say about 500.00/600.00

flow tech 150.00 or less

Why does Wile E. Coyote's come to mind when you bring up cheap....Acme cough, cough.
 
flow tech are 1 5/8 and cheap lol..:D

also whats the price of the dougs and tti ....lets say about 500.00/600.00

flow tech 150.00 or less

If you want cheap, that's fine. I have the cheaper ones and I can't change plugs and drag them on every dip in every road. Doug's and TTi sit above the center link and have excellent flow, giving you performance as well as long lasting durability. You get what you pay for.
 
sorry bout that guys but i had the cheap headers on my 340 could change plugs and didnt rub any where except getting on the trailer to go racing:D...but then again i do stuff on a budget from time to time.:protest:..and my car was a street/strip car so no need to spend a ton of money just for a header..now if this was a all out build for max hp oh yes...but we all do things diff....:salute: but he/she has to look at where the money is best spent.....600.00 dollars on a stock 318 i dont think so..but thats just me..:sad2:
 
If you want cheap, that's fine. I have the cheaper ones and I can't change plugs and drag them on every dip in every road. Doug's and TTi sit above the center link and have excellent flow, giving you performance as well as long lasting durability. You get what you pay for.

I did a compression test on my motor yesterday, i have the flotech headers. took about 30 minutes to get all the plugs out, compression test and put them back in. really not a big deal, if you really end up having issues you can slide a rubber hose over the plug to help you "get it in".

Ill admit cheap headers will rub if you want to drive your car slammed on the ground. BUT, if i recall there is one brand of shorty headers that fit our cars.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-78500/

Here is some info on them as well:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=117019

I little more money than most cheap headers but still cheaper than tti. now you have lots of options to choose from.
 
my cheap *** junk hooker headers look brand new on the bottoms and it didnt take me any longer to change my plugs than it normally does and my plug wires look brand new and they dont leak what-so-ever.i drive this duster everyday, and the paint on them is just as good as the day i put them on. i just dont see why so many people have such problems with them. these are the uncoated, small block hookers that were 179 to my door.there are these adjusters that put pressure on the torsion bars that allow you to adjust the ride height, and unless you have the front bumper scraping the ground, there is no reason they should scrape. my K member is four inches off the ground ,and my junky hookers never scrape, and i have 6 cylinder torsion bars with a small block in it, with worn out gabriel shocks on the front and i have 145/75r bug tires on 15x4 rims on the front ......pick the front end up some, replace your old shocks, whats the problem?
 
I got to ask, when some of you say your headers are scraping, how low is your car? I'll admit, I got my headers used for 75.00 and was skeptical at best of how well they would work and clear all the steering and adequate ground clearance. Old Cyclone long tube headers, plenty of ground clearance( about 6"), clears the steering, had to change the steering coupler to a u-joint style. No leaks, spark plug access is fine and a hell of a lot easier than my 350 S-10 with Hedman shorty's.
 

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my cheap *** junk hooker headers look brand new on the bottoms...these are the uncoated, small block hookers that were 179 to my door.

I have those same headers, with NEW torsion bars, shocks, and complete front end rebuild. The right side hangs so low that my wife who knows absolutely nothing about cars asked "what's hanging down there?" The tubes are smashed and scrape my driveway every time.

They are old, so they will be replaced soon with Doug's or TTI's. But I was just wondering how we could have the same headers and yours don't hang down at all?!? Here is it on jack stands and you can see the Hookers hanging down.

Feb11003Medium.jpg
 
Hi Viceroy,

FWIW, I have an old set of Hooker Comps on my 72 Duster 340. Haven't had any problems scraping anything (even the damn curb I have at the end of my driveway). Obviously, I am careful when going over speed bumps, RR tracks etc. Also, I do not find the plugs any harder to get to than most other cars I have worked on. The pic below shows you how low they hang on my car. Being on a budget myself, I'm gonna stick with them until I get everything else done on the car.

IMG_4067.jpg


Pat
 
It's been quite sometime since I've been on here. Thank you all for the advice. It's sounding like it'll be a couple years till I'll be able to finally do everything I want to do. Either way thank you every much for all the advice this newbie to mopar needed.
 
got a few months on this one . well, for the naysayers these pics are less than 2 months old , i still have not scraped one darn thing and they still look exactly the same as they day they got to my door LOL...
 

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Do you happen to have any knowledge of how bad those scrapes might be for the car? I've got the same problem myself on a 72 duster 318. Bottom of one of the pipes is pretty much perfectly flat. Aside from the obvious problem of perhaps making holes in the pipe, any other more significant damage? Any reason to have it fixed immediately? Thanks.
 
All it takes is one large bump that you don't see coming and you'll smash them.

This car had them and that's exactly what happened. It has tti now that I took off a car I had bought.

SAM_0083.jpg
 
If you are talking a mild or stock 318 then just keep the factory manifolds. I got the el-cheapo jegs house brand and I have rubbed them a bit but my torsion bars were set low and the front end was wore out. I have now up graded the whole front end to the 73 style and will be running bigger tires in front as well. I don't know why but they actually fit the old setup better, now they needed a dent on the passenger side to clear the torsion bar, I also changed to magnum heads so maybe that had something to do with it. The drivers side does touch the steering coupler when it turns witch popped the cover off of it, and at full turn the pitman arm hits the header as well. The plugs are easier to get to overall then if I had factory manifolds on. For $129 I like them just fine.
 
My Headman's are a pain in the @$$. In the way of every thing. Cain't change the back tire without them being in the way somehow. About to go with TTIs.
 
TTI Ground clearance. And no dents to get them to fit.
 

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