Stroker engine "diesels" after I shut it down

Timing should be less then 15 degrees advanced at Idle. More will cause a problem.

If the car has a large cam or larger Cubes. And you have to open the throttle blades past the transfer port because the carb is to small or the idle bleeds are to big. It will run on from to lean. Hitting the throttle will help it cool with a burst of fuel. Holley style carbs whether it be Pro-form , Qick fuel , Barry grant , Or holley. Can be adjusted to correct this.

When you have the carb off without turning the idle screw out the opening of the transfer port should be on covered no taller then it is wide. That will be your highest idle on the primaries for it to transfer properly. If your car will not idle at this position or lower you will need to close up the Idle air bleeds. This makes it suck more fuel at an idle by closing off the air. Think of it as a straw with a hole in it . The bigger the hole the less liquid you'll suck. Close off the hole and you get more fuel at and idle.

I also have strokers . I had a 850 holley on one, A typical double pumper with two corner idle circuit. I had to have the primaries opened up to far just to get it to idle. I couldn't change the air bleeds without drilling and tapping This can be done fairly easy but I wanted a better carb . I bought a 4 corner idle circuit carb and I idle off the secondaries. This leaves the primaries in a position where the transfer ports can work. I lost that little dead spot I had. the carb I bought also has changable air bleeds Idle and Main . They can be change with just taking the Air cleaner off. I decreased the size of the idle air bleeds which added fuel at an idle.

This is what I believe is your problem. Your motor needs more air then the carb can deliver through the primaries. So you need to open them up so far that your out of the idle cicuit. Take your air cleaner off and put you fingers over the outer air bleeds and see what it does. You can control them by sliding your fingers to the side allittle. This will add fuel and correct your running on problem. But the rest I mentioned will help the performance alot.

I had some pics I included which show the air bleeds . These are replacable on these carbs as you can see the screwdrive slot. There are 4 front and rear the outers are the idle.

Also you can see the Idle screw on the frist pic for the secondaries. This is on these carbs just for the reason I explained about the primary transfer. If this wasn't a problem you need to address with big motors with small carbs they wouldn't have these accessable for adjustment. Find someone in your area that really knows there **** on carbs and its an easy fix.

I have tried many carbs on many motors. Holleys, Pro-forms , Demons, Carters, Edlebrocks, BLP's , Grants and the list goes on. The best so far was the Quick-Fuels. They are a bolt on. So far every one I installed . I turned on the pump hit the key and they fired and idled. Very little adjustment needed. Even already rich on idle. They did their homework is my oppinion.

These adjustments mentioned are for holley style carbs only. If you have a Eddy or a Carter Good Luck.. Hope this helps I'm sure there will be those who won't agree . We work on alot of miss matched home built do it there self Cars in our area. When they can't get-em running they usually show up here for my son to fix. Now there could be other things to cover but this would be my first guess without seeing you car. Remember The first thing I mentioned is the Timing. Make sure that the advance is not pulling when at an idle when being shut down. Should be hooked above the venturies if being used. Steve