The slant or the 318

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Clamcake said:
With so many 4 door parts cars out there, I would go with the 318. I had a /6 and all the mods make it a dead bang loser to own in cool weather. With the crazy intake manifold set up and a big carb without the heat of an exhaust manifold under the carb, The fuel pools and the car runs like junk then you foul plugs etc, etc. The /6 is a great motor if you need a cool looking anchor, not good for much else. Ma MoPaR did the right thing killing that "sewing machine" 8.25" rear=$150 ($250 w/posi), a radiator=100 and Schumacher mounts $100 a V8 A904 $100. Patience and a parts car with all of the above $500
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wow really... mine will start first time with it 50*F in the morning with no choke... sounds like your big carb was to big or you didn't know how to tune it...

im just getting ready to break 13's with a streetable drag car... 3200lbs...

so boat anchor my A**... and if you think im biased against V8's you can check out my Altered Wheel Base Thread and look at the 505RB thats going in it...

so dont start flingin stuff like that around when its not needed...
 
805moparkid said:
wow really... mine will start first time with it 50*F in the morning with no choke... sounds like your big carb was to big or you didn't know how to tune it...

im just getting ready to break 13's with a streetable drag car... 3200lbs...

so boat anchor my A**... and if you think im biased against V8's you can check out my Altered Wheel Base Thread and look at the 505RB thats going in it...

so dont start flingin stuff like that around when its not needed...
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nice when are u going to hit 13s any way i cant wate to see that outta a so called boat anchor lol
 
Dart_Doctor said:
nice when are u going to hit 13s any way i cant wate to see that outta a so called boat anchor lol
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should have lat time out but was breakin up really bad... i think i got it fixed and getting some other stuff updated so i should be golden next time out...
 
Dart_Doctor said:
oh btw 73 that turd crack hurt
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no Asa , dont be hurt bro, that was a direct blast at my turd of a slant 6 . see mine had a rod going and smoked like a pig with 150,000 miles on it. but it still ran grrrrreat!!! you know i wouldnt bash on someone elses 6. O BTW:supz: when you dropping that 5.7 in the cuda
 
73AbodEE said:
no Asa , dont be hurt bro, that was a direct blast at my turd of a slant 6 . see mine had a rod going and smoked like a pig with 150,000 miles on it. but it still ran grrrrreat!!! you know i wouldnt bash on someone elses 6. O BTW:supz: when you dropping that 5.7 in the cuda
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im not im keeping it a 6 banger lol nah man im good i was just messing with ya lmao :supz:
 
and back to the topic on hand, if it were me ,i would drop in a V8, which i did , and im lovin every minute of it. no regrets.the reason for me ? when was the last time an original 6 cylinder duster got any respect anyway:protest:... :banghead:
 
Dart_Doctor said:
im not im keeping it a 6 banger lol nah man im good i was just messing with ya lmao :supz:
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im just giving you crap too bro, if you do decide to convert it over, it really doesnt cost much ,over and above the price of the motor unless you are shooting for some kind of EFI and all the stuff that goes with it. when it was all said and done i spent 300 for the motor and trans , 150 for the mounts , 40 for the radiator , 120 on the headers , and 60 on my driveshaft. it was less than 700 all together , and picking up a piece here and there until i was ready.i used a console shifter out of 77 charger, and the trans lines came with radiator. i did not have to cut one wire for the ignition. its amazing that some folks think it is some kind of major surgery or something and that it has to be some kind of huge process when all together i had the six out and the V8 in the car and running and driving in less than 6 hours total. .. . .. . .:burnout:
 
73AbodEE said:
im just giving you crap too bro, if you do decide to convert it over, it really doesnt cost much ,over and above the price of the motor unless you are shooting for some kind of EFI and all the stuff that goes with it. when it was all said and done i spent 300 for the motor and trans , 150 for the mounts , 40 for the radiator , 120 on the headers , and 60 on my driveshaft. it was less than 700 all together , and picking up a piece here and there until i was ready.i used a console shifter out of 77 charger, and the trans lines came with radiator. i did not have to cut one wire for the ignition. its amazing that some folks think it is some kind of major surgery or something and that it has to be some kind of huge process when all together i had the six out and the V8 in the car and running and driving in less than 6 hours total. .. . .. . .:burnout:
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lol i mite think bout it when the 6 lets go lol and i have it out but for now i want the six in her i like there sound lol btw i got the joke lol
 
Johnny Dart said:
rumblefish360 said:
Bill, a couple of people besides myself have made a issue about your flag waving and taking this (And other ) threads into a flag waving event on your one man crusade on turbo charging the /6 to a degree that I am now the receiver of PM's complaining about your mud being slung on threads.

Is this car anywhere near running ?
I guess it wouldn't be so bad if the car actually ran.
You can talk all you want about adding a turbo, but until it's actually running, well it's just talk.
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My car isn't finished, but here are two that are:

Tom Wolfe's '70 Dart, 3200 pounds; 11.02 @ 120+mph on gas, into a 15 mph headwind, and Ryan Peterson's lighter, '66 Valiant going 127 mph in 10.74 seconds at 2,700 pounds, with a power-absorbing 727 tranny.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY"]Turbo charged Slant 6 11.02 @ 120.56 - YouTube[/ame]

and



//[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QzUfV8iTpQ"]Turbo Slant Six 10.74 @ 127 mph 7-19-10 - YouTube[/ame]

NOt "just talk" from these guys...

Wallace's online drag race computer says both of those cars are making about 500 horsepower.

My car has a carbon copy of these two car's engines and should go 10's.

Shame on ME if it doesn't...
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bill as ur friend let it go man .. i pm'ed joey man just let it go more on man i made a thread for u man post it up in there
 
Bill Dedman said:
Johnny Dart said:
My car isn't finished, but here are two that are:

Tom Wolfe's '70 Dart, 3200 pounds; 11.02 @ 120+mph on gas, into a 15 mph headwind, and Ryan Peterson's lighter, '66 Valiant going 127 mph in 10.74 seconds at 2,700 pounds, with a power-absorbing 727 tranny.

Turbo charged Slant 6 11.02 @ 120.56 - YouTube

and



//Turbo Slant Six 10.74 @ 127 mph 7-19-10 - YouTube

NOt "just talk" from these guys...

Wallace's online drag race computer says both of those cars are making about 500 horsepower.

My car has a carbon copy of these two car's engines and should go 10's.

Shame on ME if it doesn't...
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How many times are you going to shove these same videos down our throats ?
Enough already.This is exactly what Rumble is talking about.
Like I said,get the car running already. Until then your turbo jabber is meaningless. Heck,I've built 2 complete cars before you've finished a motor !
Believe it or not I have been pulling for you, but for you to tell some kid to turbo his slant when you can't even seem to get yours finished isn't sound advice.
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I went the turbo'd slant route before going with a junkyard 318. Wish i had saved the money i spent on the turbo and plumbing and spent it on machine work for the v-8 instead. In hindsight i should have swapped in the v-8. I wouldn't even dream of going back to a slant now that i no longer wait for it to spool up.
 
Here are the two points to remember with each engine. You can just kinda "throw" a 318 together and have a very respectable power plant. Great little motors. I am getting ready to build one myself.

The thing about slants and getting power from them is they have a steeper learning curve. ....and that is the same whether you're going naturally aspirated, nitrous, or some form of forced induction. Slants are very sensitive to camshaft changes. You can over cam one very easily. If you are generally unfamiliar with slants (as I was when I began my project) make friends with those who are running them.Find out what they are doing, but more importantly, do what YOU want to do, or you'll never be happy.

Can you have a respectable naturally aspirated slant 6? Damn right. It is a more difficult path, but one with big rewards. That's why slany guys are so die hard. THey have to work harder to get the same results because they are starting with a smaller engine. But the reward is in being successful. Not everybody can make a slant 6 run fast, especially naturally aspirated.

The bottom line is, there is plenty of information here for you to make your own mind up without being persuaded into doing something you may not want to do. Just make your own mind up. It will be cool either way so you really cannot lose.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Here are the two points to remember with each engine. You can just kinda "throw" a 318 together and have a very respectable power plant. Great little motors. I am getting ready to build one myself.

The thing about slants and getting power from them is they have a steeper learning curve. ....and that is the same whether you're going naturally aspirated, nitrous, or some form of forced induction. Slants are very sensitive to camshaft changes. You can over cam one very easily. If you are generally unfamiliar with slants (as I was when I began my project) make friends with those who are running them.Find out what they are doing, but more importantly, do what YOU want to do, or you'll never be happy.

Can you have a respectable naturally aspirated slant 6? Damn right. It is a more difficult path, but one with big rewards. That's why slany guys are so die hard. THey have to work harder to get the same results because they are starting with a smaller engine. But the reward is in being successful. Not everybody can make a slant 6 run fast, especially naturally aspirated.

The bottom line is, there is plenty of information here for you to make your own mind up without being persuaded into doing something you may not want to do. Just make your own mind up. It will be cool either way so you really cannot lose.
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Have to say that I don't always see eye to eye with some of your posts,but I couldn't agree more with this one !!Now if I could just get some cam numbers and a source from some experienced people here !!
 
StrokerScamp said:
Here are the two points to remember with each engine. You can just kinda "throw" a 318 together and have a very respectable power plant. Great little motors. I am getting ready to build one myself.

The thing about slants and getting power from them is they have a steeper learning curve. ....and that is the same whether you're going naturally aspirated, nitrous, or some form of forced induction. Slants are very sensitive to camshaft changes. You can over cam one very easily. If you are generally unfamiliar with slants (as I was when I began my project) make friends with those who are running them.Find out what they are doing, but more importantly, do what YOU want to do, or you'll never be happy.

Can you have a respectable naturally aspirated slant 6? Damn right. It is a more difficult path, but one with big rewards. That's why slany guys are so die hard. THey have to work harder to get the same results because they are starting with a smaller engine. But the reward is in being successful. Not everybody can make a slant 6 run fast, especially naturally aspirated.

The bottom line is, there is plenty of information here for you to make your own mind up without being persuaded into doing something you may not want to do. Just make your own mind up. It will be cool either way so you really cannot lose.
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I agree with most of this except for the over camming part. The slant can take much more cam compared V8 and still have manners,you just have to know what you need,and have the engine be able support your camshaft choice. Camming a V8 and a /6 are two very different things.

Anyone who needs cam help needs to check out slantsix.org,and start searching "cam" or "cam choice" lots of stuff to read,and not just cam recommendations but links to great info on how to pick the right cam for you.
 
Of course you wouldn't agree. You're in the know about slants. For a beginner, which is what I was talking about, my statement is dead nuts accurate. Without knowing how a slant reacts to a recam (which is differently than a V8), they are indeed easy to overcam. Since they require different specs than a V8 to run large cams, you can easily overcam one being a beginner.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Of course you wouldn't agree. You're in the know about slants. For a beginner, which is what I was talking about, my statement is dead nuts accurate. Without knowing how a slant reacts to a recam (which is differently than a V8), they are indeed easy to overcam. Since they require different specs than a V8 to run large cams, you can easily overcam one being a beginner.
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I agree with that,especially when it comes to guys with experience with camming a V8,and trying to employ that experience into picking a slant six cam,is almost always going to be less that optimal(to put it nicely).

Two main things to remember for a slant vs. a V8 with cam choice is that and inline 6 gets its power stroke every 120* of crank rotation,and a V8 is every 90*.And as far as slant six vs. small block mopar in relation to flow(cfm) of the intake/exhaust Intake flow is relatively poorer than exhaust flow (flow ratio).
 
Blue87D100 said:
I agree with that,especially when it comes to guys with experience with camming a V8,and trying to employ that experience into picking a slant six cam,is almost always going to be less that optimal(to put it nicely).

Two main things to remember for a slant vs. a V8 with cam choice is that and inline 6 gets its power stroke every 120* of crank rotation,and a V8 is every 90*.And as far as slant six vs. small block mopar in relation to flow(cfm) of the intake/exhaust Intake flow is relatively poorer than exhaust flow (flow ratio).
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:cheers:
 
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