charging issues
PLEASE make some checks first
FIRST think I'd do is have the battery load tested, by someone who knows how to use a REAL carbon pile tester, like this:
If you can get the caps off the battery, buy yourself a hydrometer and learn how to use it.
Next buy a meter and if you don't have one, a 12V test lamp. You can buy a "good enough" digi multimeter from any parts store, Sears, Lowes, etc for 35 bucks or less
1. You need to determine if the regulator is ACTUALLY grounded to the battery ELECTRICALLY,
2. You need to determine if and how much voltage drop is in the IGN harness, and this is becoming more and more of a problem in these old cars
3. After you do the above, you can determine if the regulator is capable of properly maintaining the proper voltage.
So have the battery checked
Next, Turn the key to "run" but with engine off. Select "low DC volts" range on the meter, put one probe on the battery positive post, the other on the blue field wire, and or, the IGN feed to the ballast and regulator IGN terminal
You are hoping, here for a VERY low reading, the lower the better. Anything over .2v (two tenths of a volt) is cause for concern, anything higher most certainly.
In the above test, you are measuring the voltage drop in the harness circuit path from the BATTERY -- FUSE LINK -- BULKHEAD CONNECTOR -- AMMETER CIRCUIT -- IGNITION switch connector -- THROUGH the IGN switch --BACK OUT the IGN switch connector -- BACK OUT the bulkhead connector on the dark blue IGN run wire
Your number one and two suspect in case of much drop is the bulkhead connector, next is the ign switch and connector.
Next, check the ground side. Start the engine, get the battery "normalized" the engine warmed up, and an RPM to simulate "low cruise."
Stick one probe on the battery NEG post, the other probe on the regulator case. Be sure to stab through any paint, chrome, rust.
Once again, you are looking for a very low reading, the lower the better. .2V or more means the ground from the regulator --body ground -- engine block--battery needs attention.
AFTER you fix the above problems, you can check CHARGING VOLTAGE
With the engine warm, the battery "normalized" and the engine running to simulate "low to medium cruise" check the battery voltage right at the battery posts. It should be around 13.8-14.2. AFTER you have fixed the voltage drop/ ground problems, if this voltage is too high or too low, THEN you are justified in buying a new regulator.
With limited equipment, you can only do a rudimentary check to see that the alternator is fully functional, and you probably don't know what it's true output is supposed to be, anyhow.
To do that, disconnect the green field wire and hook a clip lead from the disconnected alternator terminal to ground. This will cause a "full field" or "full output" condition. Hook your meter across the battery, Start the engine, and turn on all and any loads you can think of, stereo, heater, lights, etc.
BE CAREFUL you have bypassed the regulator. With engine running to simulate "medium cruise" (35-40 in high gear simulated RPM) the MINIMUM battery voltage should be 13. The ammeter should be showing a charge. DO NOT allow the voltage to get above 15V for very long, and certainly not 16
With this clip lead in place, engine RPM will determine output VOLTAGE, so it's possible to create high, dangers voltage on the system buss.
PLEASE make some checks first
FIRST think I'd do is have the battery load tested, by someone who knows how to use a REAL carbon pile tester, like this:
If you can get the caps off the battery, buy yourself a hydrometer and learn how to use it.
Next buy a meter and if you don't have one, a 12V test lamp. You can buy a "good enough" digi multimeter from any parts store, Sears, Lowes, etc for 35 bucks or less
1. You need to determine if the regulator is ACTUALLY grounded to the battery ELECTRICALLY,
2. You need to determine if and how much voltage drop is in the IGN harness, and this is becoming more and more of a problem in these old cars
3. After you do the above, you can determine if the regulator is capable of properly maintaining the proper voltage.
So have the battery checked
Next, Turn the key to "run" but with engine off. Select "low DC volts" range on the meter, put one probe on the battery positive post, the other on the blue field wire, and or, the IGN feed to the ballast and regulator IGN terminal
You are hoping, here for a VERY low reading, the lower the better. Anything over .2v (two tenths of a volt) is cause for concern, anything higher most certainly.
In the above test, you are measuring the voltage drop in the harness circuit path from the BATTERY -- FUSE LINK -- BULKHEAD CONNECTOR -- AMMETER CIRCUIT -- IGNITION switch connector -- THROUGH the IGN switch --BACK OUT the IGN switch connector -- BACK OUT the bulkhead connector on the dark blue IGN run wire
Your number one and two suspect in case of much drop is the bulkhead connector, next is the ign switch and connector.
Next, check the ground side. Start the engine, get the battery "normalized" the engine warmed up, and an RPM to simulate "low cruise."
Stick one probe on the battery NEG post, the other probe on the regulator case. Be sure to stab through any paint, chrome, rust.
Once again, you are looking for a very low reading, the lower the better. .2V or more means the ground from the regulator --body ground -- engine block--battery needs attention.
AFTER you fix the above problems, you can check CHARGING VOLTAGE
With the engine warm, the battery "normalized" and the engine running to simulate "low to medium cruise" check the battery voltage right at the battery posts. It should be around 13.8-14.2. AFTER you have fixed the voltage drop/ ground problems, if this voltage is too high or too low, THEN you are justified in buying a new regulator.
With limited equipment, you can only do a rudimentary check to see that the alternator is fully functional, and you probably don't know what it's true output is supposed to be, anyhow.
To do that, disconnect the green field wire and hook a clip lead from the disconnected alternator terminal to ground. This will cause a "full field" or "full output" condition. Hook your meter across the battery, Start the engine, and turn on all and any loads you can think of, stereo, heater, lights, etc.
BE CAREFUL you have bypassed the regulator. With engine running to simulate "medium cruise" (35-40 in high gear simulated RPM) the MINIMUM battery voltage should be 13. The ammeter should be showing a charge. DO NOT allow the voltage to get above 15V for very long, and certainly not 16
With this clip lead in place, engine RPM will determine output VOLTAGE, so it's possible to create high, dangers voltage on the system buss.