is my crank a 4 speed crank??

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Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
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i am swapping in a 440 to my 67 cuda, but i am running into a problem with the pilot bushing and it almost seems that the input shaft is bottoming out in the crank.....the input shaft fit together in the crank without the bushing but with ...no deal....the bushing fits over the input shaft but not into the crank.
 

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Thats not look like 4peed crank to me, its auto crank. You may need to shorten the trans input shaft
 
...................11/16ths hole = auto crank.....3/4 in hole = 4 gear crank...........u can get a bearing for a 94 up 318 that fits the crank registar from ma mopar......like said though u may have to shorten the trans input shaft..........4 gear cranks had there hole drilled deeper.......kim.....
 
Did you mic. the OD of the bushing and the crank, Had the same problem on my 360
Found bushing OD was too big had to have it machined down
Hope this helps
 
Napa sells a bushing undersize outside diameter for this application. They have two listed one for standard to standard crank and one from standard to Auto crank. Our local NAPA guy got me some. You can also turn it down on a bushing holder in a lathe. If you get a measurement off your crank I can turn some for you in different sizes for cost of the bushings and shipping. No labor charge . I have a lathe and mill and always looking for a reason to play on them. I wil help ya. you get the measurement or Send me something that fits snug and I will turn you some .001 over for press fit. and a couple more .002 .003. Easier then pulling the crank if your NAPA guy can't help
 
Napa sells a bushing undersize outside diameter for this application. They have two listed one for standard to standard crank and one from standard to Auto crank. Our local NAPA guy got me some. You can also turn it down on a bushing holder in a lathe. If you get a measurement off your crank I can turn some for you in different sizes for cost of the bushings and shipping. No labor charge . I have a lathe and mill and always looking for a reason to play on them. I wil help ya. you get the measurement or Send me something that fits snug and I will turn you some .001 over for press fit. and a couple more .002 .003. Easier then pulling the crank if your NAPA guy can't help


wow thanks for all the suggestions ....bcoz on my own i was ready to whip out the big drill but not sure if thats a good idea
 
If you want a real quick solution, call Mancini Racing and have them send you their "Ball Bearing" pilot bushing that fits into the recess where the torque converter snout normally resides. It's quick, easy, and requires no machining of bushing, crank, etc.

They've worked great for me over the years. Click here:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/pilotbearing.html

Southernman
 
If you want a real quick solution, call Mancini Racing and have them send you their "Ball Bearing" pilot bushing that fits into the recess where the torque converter snout normally resides. It's quick, easy, and requires no machining of bushing, crank, etc.

They've worked great for me over the years. Click here:

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/pilotbearing.html

Southernman

This would actually be the best solution. I wasn't wearing my thinking cap.
 
Measure the length of the input shaft from the face of the trans.
Mount the bell housing to the block and measure from the depth (hole) of the crank to the face of the bell. That'll tell you if the crank is deep enough.

If the shaft length is ok, go w/the roller bearing.
 
Measure the length of the input shaft from the face of the trans.
Mount the bell housing to the block and measure from the depth (hole) of the crank to the face of the bell. That'll tell you if the crank is deep enough.

If the shaft length is ok, go w/the roller bearing.
Yup, use the Magnum pilot BEARING and measure the transmission input shaft length. If you don't have enough depth in the crank pilot hole, you can lop off a little of the input shaft. I wouldn't take off any more than a 1/2" or so. More than that and I'd drill the hole deeper. What year is the crank? If it's a cast crank, you're going to have a balance problem unless you do some serious internal rebalancing.
 
I'd be surprised if a steel 440 crank wasn't drilled deep enough. Usually, they're just not finished for a bushing on the automatic versions.
 
There were two ways the cranks were drilled. Pre-drilled, like you have, and finish drilled, then the crank with a similar hole like you've got was drilled again for the correct bronze bushing.
Contact brewers and they will set you up with the correct bushing.

Antoon
 
well i drilled it out today and all went well except right on the edge the hole got a little enlarged from the drill jumping but thats only 1/16 in the rest of the way the bushing is in real snug...all i have are 4 speed cars so this is a problem that keeps haunting me so its nice to finally find a solution......plus now i have a nice 45 dollar drill bit...LOL.....thanks everyone for all the good sugestions though
 

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My understanding was the auto crank hole was a larger diameter, but not as deep, and the 4 speed hole was smaller diameter but deep enough to accept the input shaft.

Brewers has the bushing for both scenarios, but they note the bushing for the larger diameter hole in crankshaft is "ideal for 4-speed transmissions that have had input cut off."

http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=32

Mopar Muscle magazine swapped an auto for a 4 speed, and a 5 speed, and noted they used the bigger bushing, but not whether they cut the input shaft or drilled the crank.

This seems to sum it up, scroll down:
http://www.darkside.ca/node/31

I have the same issue I need to resolve asap, and I have the 'auto' crank.

RaniDart70, what size/make drill bit did you use?
How deep did you drill?

Any concerns with the hole not being straight?

I don't want to cut my input shaft, and I want to get this thing back together, so any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I have drilled two of them in the past while in the car. Rented a magnetic drill press and mounted it to the flywheel also used another crank stub as a guide. Lots of fun!
 
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