Coil/ballast resistor draw drop a whole volt?

rob_robinson87 said

I added a relay for the 12v key on, running my hot directly from the battery to the new relay (where I mounted on the original voltage regulator location). I used the original blue/white wire that originally provided voltage to the ignition as my trigger. I made sure all my wiring was heavy enough to support the voltage regulator, electronic ignition, and the ballast resistor/coil. Even with all this extra work, the coil/ignition/ballast still pull the voltage down to 11.7 volts (car isn't running yet)- better, but still below the 12.4 at the battery. I'm sure that the Accel coil and the ballast must really be putting a load on the system. I didn't test long, but all connections are good. When I get it started, I'll update this thread. At this time, there isn't anything else I can do to improve anything- all terminals clean, all grounds clean, all crimps secure.

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OK, photos if possible. DETAIL exactly how you wired this what sort of fuse you used, where you pulled power off of, and exactly what relay did you use? What gauge wire did you use?

You should be able to get this to LESS than .2V difference between battery and the switched IGN terminal.

BEST way to measure this is to NOT measure battery v. and then IGN v. Measure the drop directly. Put one probe directly onto the battery POS post, the other on a switched IGN point, IE the IGN power to the alternator field, or the ballast or ignition system. That reading WILL BE the "drop" or the difference between the two.

I'm using a relay box out of a Voyager or similar. Relays are or are similar to common Bosch relays. Headlight high, low, fuel pump, charging, and ignition.

No voltage is more than .2v from battery and the ignition drop is nearly ZERO.