ignition problems
, i checked the volts at the positive side of my coil with the key on and i get 12.3 volts, i checked the volts on the negative side of the coil and it was very low 1. something. In my haynes repair manual it says if the negative side of the coil is not within 1 volt of the positive side of the battery then it says ignition coil is faulty and should be replaced.
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Voltage at the positive side of the coil SHOULD be "downstream" of the switched voltage and should be in the range of 5-8 depending on the resistor. Sounds like you have it wired wrong, and have switched 12V going to the coil + Do this test again, check BOTH sides of the resistor. Haynes is wrong, the neg side of the coil SHOULD be low, 1 or 2 volts.
In my repair manual it shows how to test the ignition coil with an ohm meter it says that the primary resistance of the coil should be at 01.3 and that the secondary resistance of the coil should be at 13.51,
The coil primary should be in the 1.xx to 2 ohms range, depending on the coil. The secondary should be more like 13K ohms, meaning 13,000, or 13,510. Read your book again, and see if it does not have a K after that figure. Measure again, be careful not to get your fingers on the probe tips, and use a higher range on your meter
me tying the blue wire from voltage regulator staright into the ecu power wire can cause problems? the directions that came with the voltage regultor said green wire runs straiht to altenator field terminal nd the blue wire runs from a 12v ignition source to the voltage regulator and then on to the other altenator field terminal. .................. The previous owner had that blue wire from the voltage regultor wired to the primary side of the ballast resistor, there fore the voltage regultor was not reading right and sending way too many volts to the battery
When you get some of this sorted out, I can point you to more tests regarding the regulator. NORMALLY, one terminal of the ballast, the "key side" is indeed used to "Y" off to the regulator and field. It does not matter where you "Y" the blue AS LONG as the Y is on the proper side of the coil ballast. One example is---Blue switched ignition ("ign run") comes through bulkhead connector --goes to Y-- from the Y you have:
1 to the "key" side NOT the coil side of the ballast the other terminal of the ballast goes to coil +
2 to the wire indicated in the drawing above, to the correct pin of the ECU
3 to the blue going to one of the field terminals of alternator
4 to the blue IGN terminal of the regulator
5 to the electric choke if used
Sounds to me like you have the blue going straight to the coil, instead of through the ballast.
The green indeed goes directly from the regulator to one field terminal. These do not matter, you can switch the blue/ green at the alternator
I just dont understand why my engine is idling so high, the idle on the carb is turned all the way down and the engine is still idling high, do i need to re-time the engine? is it possible that since i timed it while the charging system was not working right that what sounded good then is not good now? i just cant figure out this high idle its strange.
The charging issue should not really affect a timing problem. You need to get a light on it and see where it is. High idle is probably a vacuum leak somewhere.
