Riddle me this, Mopar electrical experts.......

Never said I had 12 volts at the coil in "run". When it runs, it has about 8-9 volts.

Wiring on car is uncut, original 1973 harness for a five pin ECU. I've been running a four pin "orange box" also subbed in another brand new one, no difference. Wiring has been rung out, fusible links checked, and connections verified.......correct wire is on the positive terminal of the coil. Have used the stock/factory connectors (as built) with a dual ballast (have checked two, neither made a difference)

Both engine and instrument panel harnesses have been removed, tape removed, and inspected for opens/shorts. Have unpinned/removed all of the male/female pins from both sides of the firewall/bulkhead connectors (one at a time, then double checked the proper receptacle against the service manual), cleaned the pins where neccesary with a fine wire brush in a Dremel tool, and tightened the female connecters and the little retention tabs on both male and female pins to make sure they don't "push back" when the connectors are plugged in.

Checked the wiring between the bulkhead connector and ignition switch as noted above.....ringing thru "P" and "Q" shows continuity when ignition switch turned to "start/crank", rings "open" in other positions....."P" and "N" ring continuity when switch selected to "Run"........at this point, I've got to assume my start circuit is okay aft of the firewall connector.

As suggested above, I'm going to look at grounds. May add another bonding strap between engine and frame or firewall, just for grins. Also......I used a set of Mancini's chrome plated alternator brackets when remounting the alternator. It may be a reach, but I think I'll pull it off, and remove the chrome under the attach points.