Painting Rustolium

Hi all

I was going to spray my Demon with satin black Tremclad paint. I was wondering if anyone has used this and how do u reduce it so it can be sprayed.

Rick

i think its 2/1 mix..i watched a youtube vid a guy did came out great..was a diff. color but great looking..mike

chyer painted his duster with rustoleum. it looks real good.

Some guys use Acetone. I used lacquer thinner and it worked pretty good. It takes about 8+ hours to dry. Acetone will speed up the process. Good luck.

Painted my scoops with this. Reduced with mineral spirits at @ 40%. Cut and buffed.

Hello

If memory serves me right does this sound about right

8 parts paint 4 parts reducer 1 part hardener

That is the way we use to reduce the old paints

Also can u use the water based primer under this product

Some guys use Acetone. I used lacquer thinner and it worked pretty good. It takes about 8+ hours to dry. Acetone will speed up the process.

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Lacquer thinner is incompatible with enamel paints. Acetone; I’m not sure of its compatibility with enamel.

I have been spraying the chassis and suspension on my friends Unimog. His choice was Rustolium for paint.

Right on the can is says to reduce it with up to 15% Acetone if needed for spraying.

So that's what I did, followed the directions on the can.

It sprayed well.

I sprayed mine with Rustoleum, thinned 20% with acetone. If I were doing it again, I might take it to 25%. Expect to do more wet sanding.
C

cuda guy said:

Hi all

I was going to spray my Demon with satin black Tremclad paint. I was wondering if anyone has used this and how do u reduce it so it can be sprayed.

Rick

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I can't speak from personal experience but a friend painted her car with CTC Armourcoat and it looks awesome.
One picture can be seen on her web page, the first Fire Chicken on her web page. http://www.sistersinspeed.com/

This is what she emailed me.

Believe it or not, it was Canadian Tire Armourcoat, flat black, in a 1 gal. can. We sprayed it with a gun like any car, but we had to thin the paint out a bit. It only cost $27.00!!!! On a side note, it gets dirty fast and I have to clean it with Clorox Greenworks at the track, I'm afraid to use any wax on it because it will change the look and I'm afraid it won't go on even.

I read all about this Rustoleum paint job business. My advice is do not do it if you plan on having a real paint job done down the line.

Lacquer thinner or any auto paint/primer will act like paint stripper if applied on top of Rustoleum.

I spray bombed a Ford Ranger with Tremclad gloss brown once, and i really liked the results. It took a full 24 hours to dry to the touch.
The paint dulled pretty bad after about a year, but it still looked good and it stuck on the body good even if i pressure washed it.

...................I spray bombed an old dodge truck years ago.........looked pretty decent, best part was if it got a scratch u just had to respray it........it looked the same as the old paint.......kim,............

Throw in some "Japanese Hardener" for super results! I used gloss black tractor paint from tractor supply with 30% acetone and 10% Japanese Hardener on my home built Cal-tracs. Hell, I used a paint brush and it layed out smooooth!

CUUDAK said:

Throw in some "Japanese Hardener" for super results! I used gloss black tractor paint from tractor supply with 30% acetone and 10% Japanese Hardener on my home built Cal-tracs. Hell, I used a paint brush and it layed out smooooth!

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Small correction- no offense!
its called Japan Drier, and though the name might imply it, it's not japanese.

I read the "paint job on the cheap" thread, or whatever it was called, until my eyes bled. In the end I decided to use a marine paint called Brightside made by Interlux and bought at West marine. Its probably availble at most boat/marine stores for about 35-40 bucks a quart. I thinned it down with about 25-30% xylene and sprayed it with a TCP Global hvlp gun with a 1.4 tip and an inadequate craftsman 30 gal. compressor.
First off let me say I thought I had made a terrible mistake going this route. After all the hours I spent fixing rust and getting the body close to where I wanted to it to be, I was VERY discouraged after the first coat. Orange peel, runs, and a generally crappy looking paint job was what I saw, but since it was the first car I had ever painted and I knew I had made mistakes I kept going. On the upside, it was now alot easier to see the holidays on my bodywork.
After a complete re-sand, fixing the holidays, and boning up on spraying techniques, I layed down a second coat. Keep in mind that it was done in a condo parking stall with pretty poor lighting but excellent ventilation.
After waiting a couple weeks for the single stage to dry through, I blocked it down to 2000 grit, then cut and buffed.
I can say first hand that very nice paint jobs can be had without spending 6,7,8,or 9 bills just for paint. I have about $450 into this including k2000 primer and reducer/hardener, sandpaper, mud, everything!
The stuff I used is hard as granite and not alot of fun to sand, but it has a bunch of UV protection (its for boats) and overall I'm real happy with it.
I'm not sure if there's a satin black Brightside paint, but I would recommend it to anybody that feels sick when they get an estimate for a paint job.
Sorry for the long-winded response. -pauly

I'm on wifeys computer, I'll post up some current pics to this thread tomorrow

pauly v.100 said:

Small correction- no offense!
its called Japan Drier, and though the name might imply it, it's not japanese.

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Your right!:cheers: I just looked at the can.

I used a marine product on a wetbike once. I think it was more of a thin gel coat. I used thinner for it and sprayed it with an old siphon type Binks gun. Had a slide/run in it so I wetsanded with 1200 and buffed to a high shine. Stuff looked good!