Car wont start
I don't understand your relay terminal numbering, you might read my post in this thread:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=177069
Here's how these work:
You have THREE important, SEPARATE switch contacts and wires associated with start/ run
You have traditional "dark blue" "ignition run" or IGN1, hot ONLY in the "run" position of the key
You have traditional "brown" bypass circuit, comes from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead, to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, hot ONLY in "start" which bypasses the ballast for a hot start
You have traditional yellow, comes from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead, to EITHER of the "push on" terminals of the start relay.
In order for the start relay to actuate, the REMAINING "push on" terminal MUST see a ground from the center terminal of the neutral safety switch in park or neutral.
Start relay:
The two push on terminals go to the "start" wire from the key, and the neutral safety switch
The big stud comes from the battery, and is hooked to the main large starter stud
The "square" screw terminal goes down to the starter solenoid
SO get your light/ meter / clip leads and get to work
1 JUMPER the two large exposed terminal on the relay. Does it crank? If not....
2 JUMPER the two terminals right at the starter. Does it crank?
If it cranks in 2 but not 1, the wire going from the "square screw" terminal to the solenoid is broken, probably from vibration right at the starter
If it cranks in BOTH 2 and 1, you have a starter relay/ wiring/ neutral safety problem
3 Remove either of the "push on" terminals. Take your meter/ test light and try to identify a yellow wire. IF you cannot, hook your light/ meter to either wire, and twist the key to start. Repeat with the other wire until you find IF one wire is "hot" with key twisted to "start."
Take this wire and hook to either "push on" relay terminal. Disconnect the remaining wire, and clip lead the exposed terminal to ground. Twist the key, does it crank?
If so, you have a wiring/ neutral safety switch problem
If not, put your light/ meter in the back of the "start wire" and twist the key. You should have a nice bright lamp in "start" or at least 11 V or so. If so, and no crank, you most probably have a bad start relay
Post back with results.
I don't understand your relay terminal numbering, you might read my post in this thread:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=177069
Here's how these work:
You have THREE important, SEPARATE switch contacts and wires associated with start/ run
You have traditional "dark blue" "ignition run" or IGN1, hot ONLY in the "run" position of the key
You have traditional "brown" bypass circuit, comes from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead, to the coil + side of the ballast resistor, hot ONLY in "start" which bypasses the ballast for a hot start
You have traditional yellow, comes from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead, to EITHER of the "push on" terminals of the start relay.
In order for the start relay to actuate, the REMAINING "push on" terminal MUST see a ground from the center terminal of the neutral safety switch in park or neutral.
Start relay:
The two push on terminals go to the "start" wire from the key, and the neutral safety switch
The big stud comes from the battery, and is hooked to the main large starter stud
The "square" screw terminal goes down to the starter solenoid
SO get your light/ meter / clip leads and get to work
1 JUMPER the two large exposed terminal on the relay. Does it crank? If not....
2 JUMPER the two terminals right at the starter. Does it crank?
If it cranks in 2 but not 1, the wire going from the "square screw" terminal to the solenoid is broken, probably from vibration right at the starter
If it cranks in BOTH 2 and 1, you have a starter relay/ wiring/ neutral safety problem
3 Remove either of the "push on" terminals. Take your meter/ test light and try to identify a yellow wire. IF you cannot, hook your light/ meter to either wire, and twist the key to start. Repeat with the other wire until you find IF one wire is "hot" with key twisted to "start."
Take this wire and hook to either "push on" relay terminal. Disconnect the remaining wire, and clip lead the exposed terminal to ground. Twist the key, does it crank?
If so, you have a wiring/ neutral safety switch problem
If not, put your light/ meter in the back of the "start wire" and twist the key. You should have a nice bright lamp in "start" or at least 11 V or so. If so, and no crank, you most probably have a bad start relay
Post back with results.
