Turbo 273 ?s

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440dart123

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So my dad has a 96 indy ram with turbonetics turbo and turbonetics external wategate msd boost/ignition of course all the fuel pressure regulators and fuel pumps but thats for efi. Hes buying another truck and selling the indy truck and i can have all the turbo stuff off of it and we are putting the indy truck back to stock.

I have no idea what size the turbo is but i will once we get it all apart, its based off a old vortec supercharger kit, the turbo mounts to a custom manifold and the wastegate is mounted to the same manifold.

Iam going to put this turbo in a 65 dodge dart 273 4speed because its a complete running car with a somewhat fresh 273 and it something i can blowup ect and not have a second thought about doing it:supz:

#1 My questions are? how much boost will this 273 handle? given its a stock shortblock

#2 I want to upgrade the cam to go along with the intake i have "edlebrock rpm" what would be a good cheap cam
#3 I have an assortmant of different heads that i can use x,j, and what ever the stock 273 heads are and i also have a set of swirlports with big valves but not sure if they valves will clear on the 273? So i guess what is the best factory turbo head.

#4 So with the cam and intake upgrade what kind of guestimate would i be at HP wise with 7-8psi dapending on my turbo what kind of power could i make at 14-17psi also this car will be intercooled and meth injection. I know kinda vague info just trying to get an idea of what it can make.
 
8:1 or so, not hipo 273 dome 10.5:1 pistons

stock 340 heads you need to notch the bore a 1/4in or so for valave clearence too.
 
My old engine dyno software doesn't list that turbo but if I had some cfm specs I might be able to give you a guess. tmm
 
Sounds like fun. Let's keep this thread going.
 
honestly i have no idea what the 273 has for compression i have no idea if its rebuilt but it runs decent and has been repainted so i just asumed its been freshend up.


For all i know it could be a custom turbo? It spooled pretty easily on the magnum. Only thing iam worried about is if my exhaust manis will be to restrictive. The turbo mounts on the pass side about at the valve cover the driver side feeds into the pass side where the pass side would normally exit the turbo is fed at the middle of the exhaust mani and the wastegate is right under the turbo faceing the radiator.

I will put some pics up today

I love the lumpy sound of a big cam i was thinking something around 500-510 lift but would it hinder performance? What do you guys suggest. Iam not tottaly new to the turbo world i have a 450whp spirit r/t just new to turbo carbed setups
 
here are some pics I put the oil there to get an idea of the size of everything
 

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Keep a good tune and maybe some meth injection and you should be able to run 10-15psi all day long. Detonation will kill you everytime.

If you have the heads off you might want to look into better head gaskets and studs since small blocks have only 4 bolts per hole.
 
anybody have a good sugestion on a cam i should use thats relativly cheap and that has a good lumpy sound to it?

Just run a Mopar Purple Cam 484/484 , it would work fine for what you are doing. I would run a Solid Version. You could probably find one used for hardly nothing.
 
Here is mine Idling on the Dyno. 242 @50 .634 Lift, Solid Roller Cam..... You can hear the cam pretty good, especially for a Turbo Motor. With it in the car and the Exhaust Dumps hitting the ground it should sound really nasty. I will run no mufflers at all.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YF9vv9sccso"]Twin Turbo Small Block Mopar - YouTube[/ame]
 
you dont have to have a radical cam in a turbo motor, a short duration intake with a centerline of 112-114 would work good. I wouldnt even change cams, just mount it up and go for it. Those magnums with the turbo top design look just like the motorhome LA manifolds I saw once. Stockish LA passenger side with a T4 flange right out the top, stock driver side snakes under pan and enters the pass side on the bottom and all the gas exits out the turbo where the pass side exhaust path would be, but it would be a 3-4 inch pipe.
 
you dont have to have a radical cam in a turbo motor, a short duration intake with a centerline of 112-114 would work good. I wouldnt even change cams, just mount it up and go for it. Those magnums with the turbo top design look just like the motorhome LA manifolds I saw once. Stockish LA passenger side with a T4 flange right out the top, stock driver side snakes under pan and enters the pass side on the bottom and all the gas exits out the turbo where the pass side exhaust path would be, but it would be a 3-4 inch pipe.

That is true to a point. Most guys like to still have the muscle car rumble. A really wide centerline takes the rumble away. In a full out race motor where you want every bit of power out of it yes wide centerline. A street car I believe don't matter all that much, you will never get it to hook.

Funny cause I seen a show on TV that was dyno testing nitrous specific camshafts against regular NA camshafts. They did about 6 cam swaps using an engine dyno..... Guess what? The regular grind NA camshafts made more power every time and they were hitting it with a 200 shot. So moral of the story is just because it is a "specific" part it does not mean it will perform better because it says it will on the box.

By the way my camshaft was custom ground and verified for my specific application first by Bullet Cams and again by Brian at IMM Engines. None of them knew about the other. The duration, lift, ICL etc were so close it was weird.
 
More mis information. You need to do some studying before you start giving people the wrong road to go down when it comes to Boost.

I don't want to get in a pissing match but unless you have a really good tune, want to use high octane fuel, water methanol, have a super intercooler, yea...... detonation with boost kills cast pistons, & they can't really stand up to the high temperatures that comes with boosting like forged pistons can.

I'm working on a turbo swap for my Ford Ranger with a 2.3l turbo engine out of a '87 Thunderbird turbocoupe (they have forge 8:1 pistons from the factory for a reason) & have been research a lot about turbocharging & the same basic principals should apply here.

My friend who has his twin turbo Dart also says the same thing too.

Now granted I thought about putting our vintage paxton supercharge on a stock 2 barrel low compression bottom end for our Barracuda but they only put out about 6-7psi at most.

I like to be on the safe side but if you try & works thats great! but don't come complaining to me if it anything happens.
 

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By the way Mad Dart your engine sounds great, do you have a video of it with the turbos spoolin?

No, I had to work out some bugs with the POS Fast dizzy. I ended up throwing it in the scrap bin. I installing a crank trigger and modified my own dizzy for the cam signal and installed 8 D585 Coils for true full sequential. I have a little bit of wiring to do to finish it up. The FAST Dizzy is considered a Low tooth count wheel and it only feeds the ECU information every 90* of crank rotation. The 36:1 crank trigger will sent info every 10* which is 9x more information every 90*. This will fix the sperratic miss issue I was having.
 
I don't want to get in a pissing match but unless you have a really good tune, want to use high octane fuel, water methanol, have a super intercooler, yea...... detonation with boost kills cast pistons, & they can't really stand up to the high temperatures that comes with boosting like forged pistons can.

I'm working on a turbo swap for my Ford Ranger with a 2.3l turbo engine out of a '87 Thunderbird turbocoupe (they have forge 8:1 pistons from the factory for a reason) & have been research a lot about turbocharging & the same basic principals should apply here.

My friend who has his twin turbo Dart also says the same thing too.

Now granted I thought about putting our vintage paxton supercharge on a stock 2 barrel low compression bottom end for our Barracuda but they only put out about 6-7psi at most.

I like to be on the safe side but if you try & works thats great! but don't come complaining to me if it anything happens.

I hear you on that. There are tons of guys running upwards of 10:1 compression with cast pistons running a lot of boost reliably. Is it for everyone? No, but it can be done. Yes your tune better be dead nuts. Keeping the intake air temps low is
Key to stay away from detonation.

Check out theturboforums.com , there are some boost crazy animals that take stock internals to 800-1000hp and they live.
 
I will be useing meth injection and a intercooler most likely a 2nd gen cummins intercooler if it will fit or a powerstroke cooler what ever fits is what i will be useing. Definitly going to put that 484 cam in as i actually think i have a brandnew one sitting in the shop and rpm intake. what kinda rpms would this thing turn 6500+ would be sweet but the engine probley wont like the added rpms on top of 8+psi

Would i have anything to gain by going with a magnum 360? I can use one of them but then i gotta buy the intake and cam they cost alot more then the LA engine but would the little extra cost be worth it?


Ok lets say i make this 273 happen what kinda HP and trq should i exspect just a guestimate plz i know there is alot of factors not pin point accuracy just wondring what i should exspect.

How much HP and trq

8psi?
10psi?
15psi
 
Ok lets say i make this 273 happen what kinda HP and trq should i exspect just a guestimate plz i know there is alot of factors not pin point accuracy just wondring what i should exspect.

How much HP and trq

8psi?
10psi?
15psi

Close to 400hp imo with the 273. The 360 would be night and day! BIG issue in your 1st gen A-body is ROOM.
I wouldn't start on this until you are absolutely sure this is what you want! The car you have now will be nothing of the sort once turbo'd. Everything has to be changed. Fuel system, Ignition system(I see your BTM), exhaust system, oil system and so on. Once you think your done there are a thousand nickle and dime things that will bite you. Believe me, I know first hand. As much cash as I have spent my car could have had a 500"+ stroker and a complete new interior complimented with all new chrome/trim.

Once mine is running here shortly, I will know if it was all worth it!

After all my rambling and you still want to do this, READ everything you can and keep reading! Carburation will be your biggest hurdle. Be sure to obtain a good afr gauge.

Good luck!
 
Close to 400hp imo with the 273. The 360 would be night and day! BIG issue in your 1st gen A-body is ROOM.
I wouldn't start on this until you are absolutely sure this is what you want! The car you have now will be nothing of the sort once turbo'd. Everything has to be changed. Fuel system, Ignition system(I see your BTM), exhaust system, oil system and so on. Once you think your done there are a thousand nickle and dime things that will bite you. Believe me, I know first hand. As much cash as I have spent my car could have had a 500"+ stroker and a complete new interior complimented with all new chrome/trim.

Once mine is running here shortly, I will know if it was all worth it!

After all my rambling and you still want to do this, READ everything you can and keep reading! Carburation will be your biggest hurdle. Be sure to obtain a good afr gauge.

Good luck!


I was talking with my dad and we have come to a conclusion that iam going to use a 65 dart its one of them early "charger darts" as it use to have a 340 with fenderwell headers so its already cut up. Iam not worried about tuneing it i will be useing a wideband and a friend of mine is helping me tune the carb hes running a homebuilt procharged 427 that runs low 10s traction limited that is a street car. This car is basicly going to be an exsperiment for me to learn and later on maybe throw some boost at 414 stroker.

So you think there will be a big differnce by going with the 360 i was thinking maybe a 50HP difference between the two lol but what do i know thats why iam asking lol. Probley stick with the 273 to learn with as its cheap no sense in breaking the magnum where the parts are more exspensive
 
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