Dash circuit board repair

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1969Fish

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On the circuit board on the 67-71 rallaye dashes there are copper prongs in a circle that go into a plug. Here's the prob, a few of them are missing. Any suggestions short of buying a new one on how to fix this?
 
i use 10 g hard copper wire cut to length and then solder to the board it works real well i can get u a pic if you want just shoot me a pm
 
The only fix I'd know is to hard wire it meaning solder wires directly to the circuit board then connect them to the harness. But personally I'd find a different circuit board before I did that. Put a want ad in the parts wanted forum and I bet someone will have one for a reasonable price.
 
On my 67, there were several pins broke/ missing it was a mess. So I just soldered light gauge wire to the copper traces, went down to Radio Sh$$ and bought some "Molex" style connectors.

I bought two pairs of them, because of what they had. You can put either gender pin into either housing, so if you have two identical housings, this makes two unique connectors that cannot be accidently switched, I.E. I put the male prongs into one FEMALE housing, and the male prongs into the second MALE housing. Their counterparts were make up on the dash harness side, so they must fit properly.

This also sets you up nicely if you ever decide to install a custom dash.

On my dash, in addition to the harness connectors.................

I had poor connections at the temp/ fuel gauge studs. Change the fake nuts to real nuts, consider using start washers and "tighten loosen tighten" the nuts to scrub the connections clean

Poor grounding of the PC boards to the cluster. Clean the cluster, clean the copper around the screws, and again, "tighten loosen tighten" to scrub it clean

Installed a pigtail to ground the cluster to the column support

The spring brass connectors in the limiter "socket" were not making contact with the board. If your's in not inside the fuel gauge (Rally) you need to look at that.

Clean the copper areas where the lamp sockets connect
 
Get wiring diagrams or count the wires in the harness connector. There shouldn't be a pin in every port since not all of them are used. The other connector has 4 ports but only 3 are used there. good luck
 
i had some old pins so i used 14g copper house wire and put it through the board and inside the pin for extra strenght and solderd it i think 10g copper is the same size around as the pins so cut to length and solder to the board if u can understand my explaining its quite easy to do and i will take some pics of the finished board later tonite i ned new batteries in my camera

View attachment dash7.jpg

View attachment dash9.jpg
 
Hey JJJ its been almost 3 years. ..lol
have you got any update to this? Im looking to make some repairs to mine as well
 
all my pics died with my last pc I will see if my wife put them on a memory stick by any chance tomorrow .
 
67Dart273 said:
Geez Steve, LMAO. There's a good thread(s) ....(SSSSSSSSS) on this lol

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=234045
Click to expand...

Lol ya I did a search and come up with a few good ones. I hit a few for updates and to see some more good pics. Do I solder the pin to wire as in JJJ pic? Then pull wire/pin back till flush, snip?

jimjimjimmy said:
all my pics died with my last pc I will see if my wife put them on a memory stick by any chance tomorrow .
Click to expand...

Thanks JJJ. I just dont want to end up melting the board. Did you solder the back of the board to pin?

Thanks
Steve
 
One thing Steve on some clusters........pay attention to clearance BEHIND the pins. When you add wire sticking out the back, "and solder" some boards and some clusters can short once the board is screwed back down.
 
67Dart273 said:
One thing Steve on some clusters........pay attention to clearance BEHIND the pins. When you add wire sticking out the back, "and solder" some boards and some clusters can short once the board is screwed back down.
Click to expand...

this is true before I installed mine I cut a round piece of industrial starter insulation and put it between the back of the board behind the pins and the metal piece to make sure things dident short out things are very close in there .
 
if you need a piece of starter insulation I can mail you some or if you send me your board I will soldier the pins on free charge if you dont want to do it .
 
67Dart273 said:
One thing Steve on some clusters........pay attention to clearance BEHIND the pins. When you add wire sticking out the back, "and solder" some boards and some clusters can short once the board is screwed back down.
Click to expand...

Del I noticed in that link you posted another member had what looked like duct tape on the board?? Im assuming to insulate like you mentioned?

jimjimjimmy said:
if you need a piece of starter insulation I can mail you some or if you send me your board I will soldier the pins on free charge if you dont want to do it .
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer Jim I appreciate it. I would like to TRY lol and tackle this myself. Its a spare board.

There was a thread that someone had used Lshaped wire?
 
4spdragtop said:
Del I noticed in that link you posted another member had what looked like duct tape on the board?? Im assuming to insulate like you mentioned?



Thanks for the offer Jim I appreciate it. I would like to TRY lol and tackle this myself. Its a spare board.

There was a thread that someone had used Lshaped wire?
Click to expand...

I'd use something besides that. Maybe dremel down the bumps, LOL and use some hard plastic sheet.
 
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