Voltage regulator
You want a Standard Blue Streak Vr-128. Like this:
Amazon.com: Standard Ignition VR128 Volt Reg: Automotive
The Echlin no. is VR-1001
Wow. $47 is a lot. I got an electronic VR recently for $11, at
www.rockauto.com as I recall. Mine was also silver, but thinner, similar shape as the later 2-wire type, but with connectors for the 60's Mopars (no flying lead).
Be careful about the factory looking large black box type. I see many on ebay that appear to be the original mechanical relay type, with wirewound resistors on the bottom. I have ~6 in my parts box I would like to get rid of.
67Dart273 is correct that you can install a 70's square-back alternator and use your standard 1-wire field setup by just grounding one field terminal. Doesn't matter which one, but I recall one has "gnd" in the casting. 1-wire field control is actually more modern electronics. They only did the 2-wire design because "low-side switching" is easier with transistors, but "high-side switching" is simple today. If you go with the 2-wire field, you need the unique triangular connector for the VR.
The square-back alt supposedly gives more output current (70A peak?). I never had trouble with the round-back alt in my Newport keeping the battery charged, and I have TBI injection and an electric fuel pump. I did have a diode fail once (no cost, Autozone lifetime warranty). The squareback alt in my 82 Aries used to vaporize diodes almost yearly, like clockwork, always the ones that hang in the air, visible thru the slots, so easy to diagnose on the road (got good at changing them). I got them to last 2 years by cutting cooling slots. It might have been a problem with that K-car. I put a squareback alt in my 65 Dart, so will see if that problem recurs.
