engine wiring help
200A? I would DEFINATELY bypass the ammeter. If you do a search, there are some threads about installing a voltmeter in place of the factory ammeter. Of course if you are going to run a custom dash, that's irrelevant.
HERE is what I'd do with the factory IGNITION harness. Carefully untape the harness so you remove
1 the original coil wires, going back to the ballast and the ECU
2 the original ballast wires, until you have disconnected and isolated ONLY the brown and the blue which goes to the BULKHEAD
3 Cut what you have to to isolate the above, and in your hand, you should have a handful of harness with the ECU connector, the distributor wires (ring terminals) and the ballast connectors.
You should now have "hanging loose" the original blue to the regulator, and the blue going down to the alternator field. BOTH the blue and green "push on" terminals going to the alternator are not needed. I would NOT necessarily remove them, just neatly tape them back. You may later decide not to run a "one wire" alternator. Later, you can remove them if you are happy.
So on the alternator, you need to connect the original alternator ring terminal to the output stud, and run a second wire TO THE STUD ON THE STARTER RELAY, NOT the starter
Once you get that done, you also need to disconnect the bulkhead connector (READ the article I posted above from MAD) and inspect, clean, repair the bulkhead connector.
TAKE POWER for your big stereo stuff off the big stud on the starter relay, and not inside the car somewhere.
200A? I would DEFINATELY bypass the ammeter. If you do a search, there are some threads about installing a voltmeter in place of the factory ammeter. Of course if you are going to run a custom dash, that's irrelevant.
HERE is what I'd do with the factory IGNITION harness. Carefully untape the harness so you remove
1 the original coil wires, going back to the ballast and the ECU
2 the original ballast wires, until you have disconnected and isolated ONLY the brown and the blue which goes to the BULKHEAD
3 Cut what you have to to isolate the above, and in your hand, you should have a handful of harness with the ECU connector, the distributor wires (ring terminals) and the ballast connectors.
You should now have "hanging loose" the original blue to the regulator, and the blue going down to the alternator field. BOTH the blue and green "push on" terminals going to the alternator are not needed. I would NOT necessarily remove them, just neatly tape them back. You may later decide not to run a "one wire" alternator. Later, you can remove them if you are happy.
So on the alternator, you need to connect the original alternator ring terminal to the output stud, and run a second wire TO THE STUD ON THE STARTER RELAY, NOT the starter
Once you get that done, you also need to disconnect the bulkhead connector (READ the article I posted above from MAD) and inspect, clean, repair the bulkhead connector.
TAKE POWER for your big stereo stuff off the big stud on the starter relay, and not inside the car somewhere.
