rumblefish's Duster project
Arrrrrgh! Well, it was bound to happen and finially did. The battery will no longer hold a charge and jumping it with everything I have to start it up just won't do it.
I went out to Auto Zone and picked up a battery. Grabbed some wire from the another local store with some ends. I had the positive end in my garage. The multi leads coming off of it also power the amp. and electric fan. So this end was helpful.
A razor knife used with care cut the caseing off. Heat shrink is used to seal it up. When you route the wire, run the wire in the path you want it to travel in. Think before you route. Where it will go, how well it is hidden, through factory looms or not.
I sent the wire from up top, down to where it is going first, then into the looms and ended at the battery. This does two things. Puts the wire where and how I want it to go and then provides me with the proper length. Exactly.
Notice in the top picture. The negitive runs down first, then over through the factory clip, then over to the head. .
The Positive wire as it runs down (Not pictured or well seen.) has some play room and is run to avoid the hot header tubes. This may add a bit of length, but it is worth every penny you pay in cable. Grounding out the positive on a hot header is a disaster.
The wire, made of coper, is an expensive lil'thing. But nothing in compare to being stranded or fire. When I purchased the wire, I grabbed enuff to do this car and another one.
Ahhhhh, the abilty to move the car when needed. How sweet it is.
Arrrrrgh! Well, it was bound to happen and finially did. The battery will no longer hold a charge and jumping it with everything I have to start it up just won't do it.
I went out to Auto Zone and picked up a battery. Grabbed some wire from the another local store with some ends. I had the positive end in my garage. The multi leads coming off of it also power the amp. and electric fan. So this end was helpful.
A razor knife used with care cut the caseing off. Heat shrink is used to seal it up. When you route the wire, run the wire in the path you want it to travel in. Think before you route. Where it will go, how well it is hidden, through factory looms or not.
I sent the wire from up top, down to where it is going first, then into the looms and ended at the battery. This does two things. Puts the wire where and how I want it to go and then provides me with the proper length. Exactly.
Notice in the top picture. The negitive runs down first, then over through the factory clip, then over to the head. .
The Positive wire as it runs down (Not pictured or well seen.) has some play room and is run to avoid the hot header tubes. This may add a bit of length, but it is worth every penny you pay in cable. Grounding out the positive on a hot header is a disaster.
The wire, made of coper, is an expensive lil'thing. But nothing in compare to being stranded or fire. When I purchased the wire, I grabbed enuff to do this car and another one.
Ahhhhh, the abilty to move the car when needed. How sweet it is.
