1971 Plymouth Duster Rotors and calipers

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eric22

eric22

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Just took off Rotors and calipers from my car autozone doesnt carry the rotors. Went to another store Dandys in staten island and I learned a little more about the rotors I was informed that the hub is a seperate part from the rotor itself. New ones cost about $50 each plus shipping then they cut off the hub shave the rotor and press in the hub with the threads onto the new rotor. I feel like I'm being taken for a ride here. Can anyone tell me if I can buy one piece instead of the cutting an old hub and pressing onto a new rotor? Doesent someone sell it one piece?
:newb::banghead:
 
There is no such thing as a "one piece" rotor for the 65-72 A body disc brakes.
Always was a "rotor" and a "hub"
It's not a big deal in separating the old rotor off the hub, and installing the new rotor.
That's the way it's done.
 
its been there for a long time lol there not coming out. Machine shop wants $60 for both.
 
eric22 said:
Should I buy a new hub any idea how much they go for?
Click to expand...

Why do you need a new hub, if your replacing rotors?
Is one of your hubs buggered up for some reason or other?
Hubs are not available new.
Old hubs have to be found by advertising in "wanted" sections in every internet forum that you can think of.
They are pretty hard to find now-a-days.

As Doug 371, the above poster stated, you just press out the studs to remove the hub from the rotor.
There is no "cutting " involved.

If your machine shop is charging $60.00 to press off 2 rotors, and then press on 2 new rotors, your paying their shop professional labor rates to do that job for you.
Maybe it's high, but what are hourly labor rates going for, in your part of the world?
 
hemi71x said:
Why do you need a new hub, if your replacing rotors?
Is one of your hubs buggered up for some reason or other?
Hubs are not available new.
Old hubs have to be found by advertising in "wanted" sections in every internet forum that you can think of.
They are pretty hard to find now-a-days.

As Doug 371, the above poster stated, you just press out the studs to remove the hub from the rotor.
There is no "cutting " involved.

If your machine shop is charging $60.00 to press off 2 rotors, and then press on 2 new rotors, your paying their shop professional labor rates to do that job for you.
Maybe it's high, but what are hourly labor rates going for, in your part of the world?
Click to expand...

My local machine shop pressed my hubs off and put the rotors and studs in for 20.00 bucks. Took him 30 minutes.
 
Its not that hard to do yourself trust me if i can do it anybody can do it. and youll get the satisfaction of doing it yourself and save a few bucks
 
If you've got the space, put the 60 bucks toward a small hyd press at harbor freight and fix rotors for your friends.
 
3406pk said:
If you've got the space, put the 60 bucks toward a small hyd press at harbor freight and fix rotors for your friends.
Click to expand...

I agree.
I bought one of those Harbor Freight 12 ton hydraulic press's when they went on sale for $90.00
That's what i use to do all my rotors and hubs, in my rebuilding brake and suspension components, for income these days.
 

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The rotor and hub are swedged together at the lug studs. Even if you do it yourself you should put the assembly in a bfake laythe and check them for true. If the rotor isn't concentric to the bearing races you'll get a steering wheel shake when braking.
Shops that will do it right wont do it for free. Good luck with it.
 
RedFish said:
The rotor and hub are swedged together at the lug studs. Even if you do it yourself you should put the assembly in a bfake laythe and check them for true. If the rotor isn't concentric to the bearing races you'll get a steering wheel shake when braking.
Shops that will do it right wont do it for free. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...

Bingo. spend the 50.00 and have it done correctly or fly to CA and have Hemi71X do them for you!
 
Although I concur with everyone above, I have over the years changed many with a big hammer and experienced no problems. Luck of the draw I suppose.

Grant
 
RedFish said:
The rotor and hub are swedged together at the lug studs. Even if you do it yourself you should put the assembly in a bfake laythe and check them for true. If the rotor isn't concentric to the bearing races you'll get a steering wheel shake when braking.
Shops that will do it right wont do it for free. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...

That is false, an urban legend, a myth, that seems to never end for some people.

There is nothing special in the way a wheel stud is fastened to the hub and a rotor on the two piece systems.

The stud just presses in and out from the two in seperating them from one another.

All that you need to do is put the assembly, the stud, under the ram of the press, and press away.
A few pumps, and the stud is out, in your hand.

I do not know why to this day and age, a few think that there some hardship in doing this.

Easy as pie.
Jim V.
 
hemi71x said:
That is false, an urban legend, a myth, that seems to never end for some people.

There is nothing special in the way a wheel stud is fastened to the hub and a rotor on the two piece systems.

The stud just presses in and out from the two in seperating them from one another.

All that you need to do is put the assembly, the stud, under the ram of the press, and press away.
A few pumps, and the stud is out, in your hand.

I do not know why to this day and age, a few think that there some hardship in doing this.

Easy as pie.
Jim V.
Click to expand...
This assumes that a previous installation was done properly. I've seen some pretty interesting and sometimes scary repairs done to cars. I've had a few of these rotors that were heavily staked around the studs to where you had to use a cutter to remove it or you might damage the hub. I've even seen studs that were tack welded to the hub by some knuckehead in the past! After a new rotor plate is properly attached to the hub, I would check the runout on a brake lathe and turn it if it needs it. With the replacement rotors being made in China (or even if they're not) you never know for sure how true they are.
 
hemi71x said:
That is false, an urban legend, a myth, that seems to never end for some people.

There is nothing special in the way a wheel stud is fastened to the hub and a rotor on the two piece systems.

The stud just presses in and out from the two in seperating them from one another.

All that you need to do is put the assembly, the stud, under the ram of the press, and press away.
A few pumps, and the stud is out, in your hand.

I do not know why to this day and age, a few think that there some hardship in doing this.

Easy as pie.
Jim V.
Click to expand...

I'm not going to argue. I've had to true up enough rotors right out of the box. That was before everything was made in China.
I will state a couple of facts...
A pin mounted floating caliper can absorb/hide a small amount of rotor movement. Fixed calipers and/or those mounted in ways will not. Happy moparing to all.
 
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