help in compresser size

Make sure you go by CFM rating at a given PSI...OTHER than zero. A LOT of compressor manufacturers are sneaky and rate their zero PSI to inflate (pun intended) their numbers. I usually like using 90 PSI as a baseline because that will run most air tools. So look for the compressor with the most CFM and biggest tank and HP you can afford at 90 PSI.



ABOUT THE GALLONS. The tank size has almost NOTHING to do with a compressor performance. All that means is, that for "short use tools," like impacts, air chisels, etc, you won't need as much HP or CFM because the pump can work in between tool uses.

For "long use" (high duty cycle) tools like sanders, grinders, sand blasters, and PAINT GUNS you don't want to go by "gallons" you want to go by TRUE CFM



ABOUT HORSEPOWER HP like everything else, has become an "enhanced math", "imaginary number." Many HP ratings are based on the amount of power the unit draws off the line and NOT shaft HP. This is a simple way of making a small unit seem big

ABOUT CFM

There are TWO big LIES about CFM

The worst is the rating "at SCFM" This is the "best" way of making a SMALL compressor seem BIG because this is the rating at the atmospheric pressure entering the suction port.

The second worst is "at 40 psi." I believe this was coined by people such as Wards and Sears "back when" because they realized that a "bleeder" air gun and most tire filling really only needed 30-40 PSI, so this makes a "medium" copressor sound "big."

The only REAL rating is rated almost universally "at 90PSI" This figure IF IT IS NOT A LIE is the REAL airflow that your compressor can deliver to real air tools.

You need to pick your biggest tool, or the biggest one you expect to obtain, and buy accordingly

DO NOT ever buy a direct drive compressor. Buy a belt drive

Do not buy an "oiless" compressor

Try to buy one with a cast iron pump, or AT LEAST a cast iron cylinder and head

Even some "brands" that used to be "solid" are now peddling Chineseo junk