Carb swap - Electric Choke Wiring

You really don't need much special for a heat sink. the mount surface must be FLAT, and you must break/ file off the little nubbin that originally located the module in the GM mount, or else drill a clearance hole for it

On my 67, someone had converted the car to Mopar ECU and mounted the ECU over under the wiper motor, there's a flat place there on the pass. side of the dist. Since there were already a couple of holes there, used one of them, and drilled another for the GM module.

I first "discovered" them while Googleing how to hook up the breakerless dist. in my 20R powered Oliver crawler, and very soon got hits on the HEI conversion. It worked so well on the tractor, that I put one on the Dart.

Since that is what you are doing, you could ALSO simply run a wire from the coil + (which will be switched 12V with HEI) right over to the choke.

Do yourself a favor when you get things hooked up, and check for HARNESS VOLTAGE DROP

You will be checking the drop from the battery, through the bulkhead, through the ammeter circuit, the igntiion switch and connector, and back out the bulkhead to the IGN run buss

With everything hooked up "normal," turn the key to "run" with engine off. Put one meter probe on the IGN run buss, such as the blue field wire on the alternator, or up at the junction where you removed the ballast. Stick the other proble on battery POS post. With the meter on low DC volts, you are looking for a very low reading, the lower the better

If the reading is more than .2V (two tenths of a volt) this indicates some drop in the harness. ESPECIALLY if this drop is .3 or higher, you need to run down where it is

(My 67 originally had ONE VOLT drop!!)

Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch and it's connector, and the ammeter circuit.

Read the MAD article for a good idea of what goes on:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

which came from here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/