Master cylinder for manual disc brakes?

-

1mopar4life

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2011
Messages
100
Reaction score
4
Location
Northeast, AR
It looks like my MC on my dart is leaking so it's time for replacement. Which master cylinder do I need? Can I use one from a D150? I want to stay with the manual disc/drum setup I just swapped in. Also, will my parts car Duster have the valve I need or would it be wiser to buy a new replacement one?
 
The truck MC's have a larger bore (1.125") which means it will require more leg pressure. Some like this but I didn't and I thought I would. You should be able to find a parts store MC for the Dart with disc/drums. I switched to an aluminum one with a 1.03" bore. Still requires some leg but not like the truck MC. One with a 7/8" bore would work even easier - but as the bore size decreases, the pedal travel increases.
 
I'll put some thought into that, I plan to cruise with it so I don't want a hard pedal but I do want one that doesn't need a lot of travel just for confidence same. How does the factory replacement one compare to the truck one? I don't believe the one on my car is factory. It appeared the previous owner changed to a disc master and was about to swap to disc brakes but fell short and still had the drums from a /6 car around it but that's all changed over now (check my build thread for in depth details) . I'll look over the one I have and make for sure if it needs replaced while the engine is out so it will be easier.
 
Cardone and a few other rebuilders have part # 10-1821 which is an aluminum master cylinder for manual disc Aspens and Volare's. Forgot exactly what year. You'll need an adapter and a plastic resevoir with the 2 screw-on caps. I got some off of a truck for the extra capacity and they are more common. You might need to break off a tab or two underneath, but it works fine.

I have one on my Dart Sport race car which I'm happy with. But I don't know how it would feel on the street.

Discs need more a bigger bore master cylinder than drums. But don't use any from a FWD appkication and make sure the one you get has a groove to capture the rubber pushrod retaining ring.
 
Thanks for the insight Locomotion. Ill go by the parts store this afternoon after I get done with class and see what all they offer that will swap right into my car. I want to keep my car as factory and easy to work on as possible just in case I ever have problems the nearest parts store can get me parts LOL. Our 67 Cuda has 4 wheel Wilwood brakes with a Wilwood MC and I do like the pedal travel and effort on it pretty well but on the street it would be completely different. It has more travel than effort. Ill see what I can come up with.
 
I ordered one from rockauto.com for a '72 Duster with disc brakes because it has a 15/16" bore for less pedal effort in my manual brake car. It bolts right in. While the smaller bore required less pedal effort it does have longer pedal travel. The books all call for an over 1" bore master cylinder for my manual disc brake car which requires a tremedous amount of pedal effort.
 
I got my 15/16" with the adapter from Dr.Diff. Works awesome and I love the how little I have to push to stop on a dime.
 
I agree. You can't go wrong with a brand new aluminum one from Dr. Diff which includes a two bolt mounting adaptor. I got my 1.03" one from him.

I would stay away from a parts store reman aluminum unit for two reasons: a) Reman aluminum units were known to fail because they couldn't rebuild them and not leak and b) you're likely to receive an iron body these days anyway because of "a".
 
-
Back
Top