Power Steering bracket/pulleys help please.

As you are finding, it all looks easy when done. Now you see why some people spend 5 minutes staring under the hood of someone else's car at an auto show and shaking their head. Only those who have been there can appreciate all the pitfalls. Even SBC guys deal with this (long vs short w.p.).

When cudamark said "complete set", he might also mean the crank damper too (balance might vary between forged & cast cranks), but since you are going back to the cast iron w.p., you won't be swapping. If you do swap pulleys, Rick Ehrenberg sells shims on ebay for all the pulleys which deal with the alignment issue. I have read that pulleys must be within 1/8" alignment for a V-belt. That is much more forgiving than serpentine belts (multi-V).

I think the only way you will fit a Federal pump on the TRW brackets would be to cut off the rear tab of the bracket, and then no going back. You would also need a different high pressure pwr steering hose for the Federal pump since it has an O-ring fitting instead of an inverted flare. The 73+ hose also has a different fitting at the p.s. gear, as I recall. I just swapped the whole valve body from a 73+ gear I had, I recall. I recall the return hose was bigger on the Federal pump too, but that worked with the valve body. Another can of worms.

I would just use a TRW pump. I recall rockauto lists rebuilt ones. I rebuilt mine with an Edelmann kit from rock (~$12). It wasn't hard. Just take photos so you put the slides back in correctly. I recall using a wrap of wire to hold the shoes in while I slid it home. You do need a pulley puller (Harbor Freight). This was before I found I couldn't use the TRW pump, but it will work fine on my Newport. You can find an old Chrysler video on the net extolling the new Federal pump, with a variable speed mode that makes it steal less power, so maybe a slight advantage.