416 Stroker Kit Question

I've got a few of the cast crank engines that are just fine. I would not use the Eagle cast unit. I've used three. None failed, but neither was perfect. Just "within factory spec". I decided not to use them a couple years ago. But, the other cast cranks can handle way beyond your power level. Thye routinely make 550+ and I know of one that has 175hp plate on top of that. You don't need forged. But, as far s "must haves" for any non factory type build - The sonic test should be done. Thick walls are stable. Stable walls last longer and make more power. Thin walls will at minimum flex and lose ring seal, at maximum crack under the higher stress from the longer stroke. The rotating assembly should be competition internally balanced. This minimizes the stress on the crank itself, makes more power, adds longevity, and runs smoother. I also align hone all my engines and run main studs. Cap flex can be an issue in factory main bolt and factory cap small blocks. Studs minimize that without adding big costs. Those are what I'd call mandatory stuff. Also, a 400hp stroker is one that is down on power...lol. Even in very mild form they will reach that easilly.