Car won't even crank...

You missed my point. The NSS and wiring can be good, but the transmission misadjusted, a common problem. Anyway, since you get the solenoid to engage but the starter doesn't turn, that narrows it to (maybe) a bad starter or bad wiring.

Is the engine connected well to the battery neg terminal (a big wire w/ no corrosion)? Measure the voltage drop between them when the solenoid actuates, should be <1 V. Did you clean and sand the starter and engine contacts? Measure the drop from starter aluminum body to battery neg, should also be <1 V when cranking. Does your battery maintain >10 V? Even better, measure the voltage drop from the big lug on the starter to the starter housing. If <10 V, don't blame the starter. If >10 V, the starter might be bad. It could also be that teeth are missing on your torque converter, which can jam the starter teeth sometimes. If so, you usually hear rattles sometimes when starting. Usually, with your symptoms, the solenoid contacts are pitted so they don't quite touch. If you need a new starter, I recommend the "mini starter" from Magnum engines (~85-95 Dodge trucks).

For all those viewing, if you don't have a multimeter, buy one. I got ~6 free at Harbor Freight w/ coupon and keep one in all my cars. If you can't use one, search youtube. You are helpless otherwise. Refusing to get one trys my patience, like with the neighbor who stopped by with his 50's Buick with electrical problems. I looked at his dome light, w/ frayed fabric wiring (6 V) and showed him what to do with a multimeter to test things, and even showed him the problem. Told him to buy a multimeter. He shows up a few weeks later, same questions, no multimeter, says he doesn't understand electricity because he majored in music. Told him buy one and check youtube. If stuck on the road with no multimeter, you can use the dome light brightness as a poor man's voltmeter.